How to bake the perfect sponge

Can't get a rise out of your cake? Terry Farris comes to the rescue with a foolproof checklist and five delicious recipes

Baking cakes is something our grandmothers always seem to be so good at. Yet, no matter how many of us are riding the wave of modern cooking trends, we usually just can't be bothered with baking. What a shame. There's nothing quite like the aroma of a just-out-of-the-oven Victoria sponge; a simple thing to conjure up childhood days.

Before you Start: Tips and Trouble Shooting

  • Make sure your oven temperature is correct and has had time to fully preheat. It's a good idea to invest in a separate oven thermometer - the dials aren't always that accurate.
  • Prepare the tin by coating with a thin layer of oil and lining the base with a circle of greaseproof paper or baking parchment. This stops the cake from sticking on the sides and bottom.
  • If using butter or margarine, it should be soft but not melted or oily. The eggs should also be at room temperature, and not straight out of the fridge, if possible. Beat them lightly in a small bowl before adding them gradually to the cake mixture.
  • If the mixture begins to curdle while adding the eggs, add a teaspoon of the flour - a curdled mixture will still taste fine, just be slightly denser than one that hasn't.
  • The mixture should be of 'dropping consistency' which means it will fall reluctantly off a spoon when given a light jerk. If the mixture is too thick, add a little water, milk or lemon juice, whichever is appropriate.
  • Be gentle - the idea is to keep air bubbles inside the cake, so use a light hand when folding and spooning into the tin. Try not to open and shut the oven door too much as a rush of cold air can inhibit the rising process.
  • If the cake is rising unevenly, it means one side of your oven is hotter than the other. Simply give it a half turn, making sure the tin is in the centre of the rack.
  • If the top of the cake is browning too fast, lay a piece of tin foil over the top and double check your temperature.
  • To check for doneness, lightly press the top - it should spring back. Or insert a skewer or cocktail stick in the centre - it should come out clean. Also, the cake will continue cooking in the tin for a few minutes after it comes out of the oven.
  • When cool enough to handle, turn the cake out upside down, peel off the paper and turn right side up onto a rack. This allows steam to escape and the cake to cool quickly.
  • And don't forget - even if your effort doesn't look like it came out of a packet (so much the better), it's going to taste great ...

    Classic Victoria Sponge
    Lemon Victoria Sponge with Lemon Glaze Icing
    Chocolate Victoria Sponge with Chocolate Cream Icing
    Coffee Victoria Sponge with Butter Cream Frosting
    Easter Celebration Cake

    Classic Victoria Sponge
    Serves 8

    175g butter, softened to room temperature
    175g caster sugar
    3 eggs, at room temperature and lightly beaten
    1 tsp vanilla essence (optional)
    175g self-raising flour
    3 tbsp raspberry (or any other favourite) jam
    icing sugar to dust the top

    1. Prepare 2 x 18cm/7inch cake tins by oiling lightly and lining with greaseproof paper or baking parchment. Preheat the oven to 190C/375F/gas mark 5.
    2. Place the butter in a large mixing bowl and whip with an electric whisk for a minute, then add the sugar, continuing to whisk until the mixture is smooth and pale. Slowly add the beaten eggs and vanilla, if using, and whisk until well incorporated.
    3. Stop whisking and sift in the flour. Using a large metal spoon, gently fold in the flour. The mixture should be thick enough to stay on the spoon and 'plop' off when turned upside down (this is called dropping consistency - see tips). If it is too thick, stir through a little water. Spoon evenly between the tins and carefully smooth the top.
    4. Bake for 25 minutes or until risen and golden, using the above tips to check for doneness. The cake on the top rack may cook slightly quicker than the one on the bottom - you can either swap them halfway through baking or take them out separately.
    5. When cool enough to handle, turn out, remove the paper and finish cooling on a wire rack. To assemble, turn one of the cakes upside down onto a serving plate. (Use the one with the less attractive top as the bottom layer.) Spread with the jam then sandwich the other cake, top side facing up, on top. Sprinkle with the icing sugar and cut into slices to serve.

    Lemon Victoria Sponge with Lemon Glaze Icing
    Serves 8

    2 lemons, washed
    175g butter, softened to room temperature
    175g caster sugar
    3 eggs, at room temperature and lightly beaten
    175g self-raising flour
    5 tbsp lemon curd (from a jar is fine)
    4 tbsp icing sugar
    lemon juice

    1. Prepare 2 x 18cm/7inch cake tins by oiling lightly and lining with greaseproof paper or baking parchment.
    2. Preheat the oven to 190C/375F/gas mark 5.
    3. Cut one of the lemons into quarters and remove the pips. Place the chunks, skin, pith and all, into a food processor and whiz until very finely chopped, brushing the bits down off the sides in between chopping. Squeeze the juice from the other lemon and set aside.
    4. Place the butter in a large mixing bowl and whip with an electric whisk for a minute, then add the sugar, continuing to whisk until the mixture smooth and pale.
    5. Slowly add the beaten eggs and whisk until well incorporated. (Add a teaspoon of flour if the mixture is beginning to curdle.)
    6. Fold in the chopped lemon, then sift in the flour and quickly fold until well combined. Add a little of the lemon juice, if necessary, to take the mixture to dropping consistency. Spoon evenly between the tins and carefully smooth the top.
    7. Bake for 25 minutes or until risen and golden, using the above tips to check for doneness. The cake on the top rack may cook slightly quicker than the one on the bottom - you can either swap them halfway through baking or take them out separately.
    8. To make the glaze, mix the icing sugar and enough lemon juice to make a runny consistency, probably about 1 tablespoon.
    9. When cool enough to handle, turn out the cakes, remove the paper and finish cooling on a wire rack.
    10. To assemble, turn one of the cakes upside down onto a serving plate. (Use the one with the less attractive top as the bottom layer.) Spread with the lemon curd then sandwich the other cake, top side facing up, on top.
    11. Pour over the lemon glaze, allowing it to run down the sides in little streams.

    Chocolate Victoria Sponge with Chocolate Cream Icing
    Serves 8

    175g butter, softened to room temperature
    175g caster sugar
    3 eggs, preferably at room temperature and lightly beaten
    175g self-raising flour
    25g cocoa powder

    For the icing:
    100g dark chocolate, broken into pieces
    100ml double cream

    1. Prepare 2 x 18cm/7in cake tins by oiling lightly and lining with greaseproof paper or baking parchment.
    2. Preheat the oven to 190C/375F/gas mark 5.
    3. Place the butter in a large mixing bowl and whip with an electric whisk for a minute, then add the sugar, continuing to whisk until the mixture is smooth and pale.
    4. Slowly add the beaten eggs and whisk until well incorporated.
    5. Stop whisking and sift in the flour and cocoa powder and gently fold through until well combined. If it is too thick, add a little milk until you achieve dropping consistency. Spoon evenly between the tins and carefully smooth the top.
    6. Bake for 25 minutes or until risen and golden, using the above tips to check for doneness. The cake on the top rack may cook slightly quicker than the one on the bottom - you can either swap them halfway through baking or take them out separately. When cool enough to handle, turn out, remove the paper and finish cooling on a wire rack.
    7. To make the icing, place the chocolate and cream in a bowl and melt gently over a pan of simmering water (or carefully in a microwave), taking care not to overheat. Stir until the mixture is smooth.
    8. Turn one of the cakes upside down onto a serving plate and pour on half of the icing, spreading in a thin layer to the edges. Place the other cake, right side up, on the iced layer and pour over the remaining icing, spreading to the edges and allowing it to run a little down the sides.

    Coffee Victoria Sponge with Butter Cream Frosting
    Serves 8

    175g butter, softened to room temperature
    175g caster sugar
    3 eggs, preferably at room temperature and lightly beaten
    175g self-raising flour
    1 tbsp strong instant coffee or espresso powder mixed with 2 tbsp warm water

    For the frosting
    75g unsalted butter, softened
    75g cream cheese, softened
    200g icing sugar, sifted
    1 tbsp strong instant coffee or espresso powder, mixed with 1 tbsp warm water

    1. Prepare 2 x 18cm/7inch cake tins by oiling lightly and lining with greaseproof paper or baking parchment. Preheat the oven to 190C/375F/gas mark 5.
    2. Place the butter in a large mixing bowl and whip with an electric whisk for a minute, then add the sugar, continuing to whisk until the mixture is smooth and pale.
    3. Slowly add the beaten eggs and whisk until well incorporated, then stir in the coffee.
    4. Sift in the flour, folding through until well combined. Spoon evenly between the tins and carefully smooth the top.
    5. Bake for 25 minutes or until risen and golden, using the above tips to check for doneness. The cake on the top rack may cook slightly quicker than the one on the bottom - you can either swap them halfway through baking or take them out separately. When cool enough to handle, turn out, remove the paper and finish cooling on a wire rack.
    6. To make the frosting, whisk the butter and cream cheese until smooth, then whisk in the sugar and coffee until light and fluffy. Turn one of the cakes upside down onto a serving plate and spread with a third of the frosting. Place the other cake, right side up, on the frosted layer and spread the remaining frosting on the top and sides.

    Easter Celebration Cake
    Though the classic Easter cake is the Simnel, here's a less complicated version that combines the techniques of the Victoria Sponge with the almonds and marzipan always found in the traditional fruitcake. The eleven balls of marzipan on top represent the twelve apostles (excluding Judas).

    Serves 8

    175g unsalted butter, softened
    175g caster sugar
    1 tsp vanilla essence
    pinch of ground cinnamon
    3 eggs, at room temperature
    100g self-raising flour
    75g ground almonds
    milk, if necessary
    142ml double cream
    225g strawberries, cut in half
    200g marzipan
    2 tbsp apricot jam
    edible, fresh flowers to decorate (optional)

    1. Prepare 2 x 18cm/7inch cake tins by oiling lightly and lining with greaseproof paper or baking parchment. Preheat the oven to 190C/375F/gas mark 5.
    2. Place the butter in a large mixing bowl and whip with an electric whisk for a minute, then add the sugar, continuing to whisk until the mixture is smooth and pale.
    3. Slowly add the beaten eggs and vanilla essence and whisk until well incorporated, adding a teaspoon of flour if the mixture begins to curdle.
    4. Sift in the flour and ground almonds and fold through until well combined. If the mixture is a bit too thick, add a little milk until you have dropping consistency. Spoon evenly between the tins and carefully smooth the top.
    5. Bake for 25 minutes or until risen and golden, using the above tips to check for doneness. The cake on the top rack may cook slightly quicker than the one on the bottom - you can either swap them halfway through baking or take them out separately. When cool enough to handle, turn out, remove the paper and finish cooling on a wire rack.
    6. Whisk the double cream until just thick enough to hold a peak.
    7. When the cake is cool, place one of the cakes upside down onto a serving plate and spread with the cream. Press the strawberries, cut side down, into the cream, then place the other cake on top.
    8. Divide the marzipan in half and roll one half into a circle the size of the cake.
    9. Warm the apricot jam in the microwave or over a pan of simmering water and brush the top, then lay the circle of marzipan on top.
    10. Form 11 balls with the remaining marzipan and use the apricot glaze to stick them evenly around the rim of the cake. Dust with icing sugar, then quickly toast under a hot grill to lightly brown the top and balls. Decorate the centre of the cake with edible, fresh flowers, if desired.