’Tis the season to eat asparagus, the finest green shoot of spring. Terry Farris offers some top tips

It’s a welcome sign of spring when the first of the season’s asparagus begins to appear in the greengrocers and supermarkets. Asparagus comes from the lily family and can be traced back to the Romans in the 1st century AD. It’s a good source of folate (folic acid) and vitamin A as well as iron and vitamins B and C. It is also known as a natural remedy: it can help relieve indigestion and act as a mild laxative and sedative. It comes canned and frozen, but as with most vegetables, is much better fresh. Look for the first crop of British asparagus in late April– it will be gone by the end of July, so enjoy it while it lasts.

Science aside, when we think of asparagus we think of hollandaise sauce and, unfortunately, high prices. The reason this strange, green vegetable is so expensive is the way it has to be grown. From sowing, a plant will take three years to begin to produce marketable spears. Methods of cultivation and results vary around the world. On the continent, white asparagus is the most popular type. This is achieved by piling up the earth around the spears as they grow, to prevent exposure to sunlight. In Britain and North America, the green varieties are preferred (and are said to have more flavour), and they come in dark and light shades; there is even a purple variety called Viola. Sprue, often sold in market stalls at a more affordable price, is a form of wild asparagus, Asparagus acutifolius, and is good for making soup.

When choosing asparagus, look for firm, green spears with tight, crisp tips. (Very large stalks tend to come from older plants and can be tough.) And since asparagus is grown in sandy soil, it should be washed to remove any grit before cooking. If the ends are hard and cracked, cut them away. Tough stalks with thick skin will benefit from peeling with a vegetable peeler, a couple of inches (6 or so centimetres) up the stem.

Cooking asparagus. Asparagus is usually boiled or steamed, but can be grilled or roasted for a different, slightly nutty flavour. There is a special asparagus pan (useful but not necessary) that allows the spears to stand upright in boiling water, while the steam gently cooks the more delicate tips. Or you can simply submerge them in a large pan of boiling water, cover and cook anywhere from 3-6 minutes – this will depend on the size and freshness of the spears. (450g should be enough for 2 people.) You can also steam them, provided your steamer is large enough to accommodate the spears whole. This will take a few minutes longer than boiling. When just done, a sharp knife will glide easily through the stalks. Drain them carefully so as not to damage the tips. They should have a slight resistance when eaten, but not too crunchy. Asparagus is best served neither hot nor cold, but warm and eaten, traditionally, with the fingers.

The ultimate classic accompaniment to steamed asparagus is hollandaise sauce. Home-made is best but can be tricky to make. There are reasonable packet mixes on the market which make it quicker and easier. Or try some of these other ideas:

• Gently melt some unsalted butter, then add freshly squeezed lemon juice, salt and pepper and pour over simply steamed asparagus.
• Make a simple vinaigrette with 1 part lemon juice to 3 parts light oil, salt and pepper and a pinch of sugar. Shake well and drizzle over just cooked asparagus.
• Staying with the lemon theme, stir some lemon juice into good quality mayonnaise, season with salt and pepper and serve in a small pot on a plate with warm spears.
• To roast asparagus, preheat the oven to a hot 220C/425F/gas mark 7. Lay on a baking tray and drizzle over a little olive oil, rolling the spears to coat in the oil. Roast for 15 minutes or until slightly wilted and brown on the tips. Lay on a plate and sprinkle over sea salt and coarsely ground black pepper. For a smart starter, curl up slices of Parma or Serrano ham to serve along side.
• Asparagus soup: Wash and trim 450g asparagus and chop into 4cm lengths. Melt some butter in a saucepan and gently fry 1 finely chopped shallot until soft. Add 1 small, peeled and diced potato, the asparagus, salt and pepper and cover with vegetable stock or water. Boil, then simmer for 15 minutes till the vegetables are soft. Purée until smooth. For extra richness, stir through some single cream or crème fraiche. (For a garnish, fish out 6 tips before you purée, and serve on top with a swirl of the cream.) This quantity is enough for 2. Double to serve 4.
• Spring vegetable frittata: Wash and trim 250g thin asparagus and chop into 2.5cm pieces. Boil a pan of water and drop in the asparagus, along with 150g frozen petit pois or peas. Cook for 2-3 minutes until just tender, then drain. Melt a bit of butter in a non-stick frying pan and fry 2 sliced green onions gently. In a separate bowl, beat 4 eggs lightly, season with salt and pepper and add the asparagus and peas. Pour into the frying pan, cover and cook over a low heat for 10 minutes or until just set. Take care not to cook too quickly and burn the bottom. Sprinkle with your favourite cheese (goat’s, feta, Cheddar, whatever you like) and flash quickly under a hot grill until just golden on top.

  Next page:
  *Hollandaise Sauce
  *Asparagus Hollandaise Pancakes
  *Grilled Asparagus with Lemon Butter

  Hollandaise Sauce
  Serve warm with steamed or roasted asparagus. This sauce is also delicious served with broccoli, or poached fish, particularly salmon.

  Serves 4

  1 tbsp white wine vinegar or lemon juice
  2 free-range egg yolks
  115-140g slightly salted butter, softened and cut into small cubes

  1. Take a double boiler or bain-marie and heat some water in the bottom section. You must keep the water well below the boil and make sure that it doesn’t actually touch the base of whatever contains the sauce, or it might curdle.
  2. In the bowl or pan that is to go over the water, beat the vinegar or lemon juice with the egg yolks. Set this mixture over the hot water and, stirring all the time with a wooden spoon, add the cubes of butter one at time, letting each one melt before you add the next.
  3. Keep scraping the egg down from the sides of the pan or bowl. If the sauce shows any signs of thickening too fast or curdling, remove the bowl or pan immediately from over the hot water, stirring gently all the time. If the sauce refuses to thicken, turn up the heat a little.
  4. If you find the sauce too salty, add a small amount of unsalted butter. Hollandaise should be smooth and creamy in texture. If it is too thick, add a few drops of cold water or creamy top of the milk and stir gently to mix.

  Asparagus Hollandaise Pancakes
  Grilled Asparagus with Lemon Butter