Is it really worth lugging back vats of olive oil from your Tuscan beach holiday? Julia Watson guides you through the Mediterranean’s edible souvenirs

It’s the end of a fabulous fortnight in some Mediterranean corner of paradise, and you wish you could pack that tasty waiter into your suitcase. But it’s probably a better investment to bring back a slightly more realistic – and reliable – reminder of those languid, sun-baked days: the food souvenir.

Though it depends on the exchange rate, generally speaking, goods that you see imported into the UK will be cheaper in their country of origin because storage and transport costs won’t be built in. Also, quality should be higher the closer you get to source (not least because picky local housewives will demand it).

Are there any customs restrictions?
For Morocco and Turkey, both of which are outside the European Union, the old customs restrictions on alcohol and cigarettes (1 litre of spirits or 2 litres of wine, and 200 cigarettes) still apply. But these days, inside the EU, Duty Free no longer exists and there are no customs restrictions on food and drink. You can bring back as much as you can carry. But it wouldn’t be wise to cart home fresh seafood or meat. Not only is there the problem of smell, but in the time the journey takes, it may well have become unsafe to eat.

Can I wait until I get to the airport before doing my shopping?
You can, but you really should try to buy your souvenirs from the local shops before you leave your resort, rather than from the point of departure. Shops at small airports offer a feeble choice and, even at capital-city airports, specialist boutiques tend to focus on high-end, over-packaged goods.

Go to market
The most entertaining way to shop is from street markets – the best bet for local specialities. The atmosphere of a busy market will also provide the happiest memories. As to which local shops are best for particular treats, here’s where your tasty waiter comes in. Ask him or your hotel manager, or even the bedroom-cleaning staff where they buy their groceries. If you’re in Greece, Italy, Spain or Portugal, talking to the locals is the best way of finding out where to buy locally pressed olive oil – the finest cooking souvenirs of all. If you are lucky enough to hear of a nearby oil latheropoleion or fattoria, take along a clean plastic bottle for filling. You’ll be stunned at the difference in taste between this ‘liquid gold’ and the oil you’re used to buying from your nearest supermarket.

Otherwise, try the supermarket in your village or the nearest town. It may not sound glamorous, but they purchase in bulk and turn over their stock on a regular basis, so you are probably being offered fresh supplies and only paying what the local market will bear. Smaller shops near resorts and hotels may well be geared to tourists and the prices will probably reflect this.

Meat treats: if you want to bring back salamis and cured meats like Serrano and Parma ham from Spain or Italy, buy them in large pieces – unsliced. They won’t dry out as quickly as pre-sliced meats and they’re cheaper bought in bulk. The same goes for hard cheeses, such as Parmesan and Pecorino.

Pass on the plonk: when buying wines, particularly from France, it makes much more sense to buy at the higher priced end of the market than at the lower. You will get a wine that you probably couldn’t afford at home. Pudding wines, like Sauternes and the cheaper Monbazillac are a good investment, particularly if you buy in half bottles for more regular indulgence.

Pots and pans: nearly every Mediterranean country produces terracotta dishes – useful for gratins, lasagnes and bakes. In Spain, look out for special paella pans and in Greece, cheap plastic-handled serrated knives can be found in almost every corner shop. They stay sharp forever.

Country-by-country shopping list

France:
• Regional cheeses and pâtés, like pâté de foie de canard, or pâté d’oie (goose) from the Périgord
• Tins of confit of duck or goose
• Garlic braids (rose garlic from Provence)
• Cooking chocolate with 70% cocoa solids

Italy:
• Parmesan cut from the block
• Aged balsamic vinegar: only buy bottles marked ‘tradizionale’ from Modena – proof that it’s genuine
• Dried porcini
• Salted capers
• Salted anchovies
• Dried borlotti and cannellini beans – they’ll be from the most recent crops

Spain and Portugal:
• Membrillo (quince cheese)
• Saffron
• Almonds
• Oil
• Old Rioja or Dao wines. (Look for BSE white wine from Portugal. It tastes fine but you’re buying it for the name)