Couscous: Out of Africa

According to North African folklore, couscous has magical origins - and the rest of the world has since fallen under the spell of this fluffy, featherlight grain

Couscous is a curious food. It could almost be called 'shy', as it has a light and mild taste and is best as an accompaniment to stronger flavours.

It originates from North Africa, where it's a staple of daily life, and is also found in the Middle East and beyond. Traditionally, the Algerians believed that couscous was the product of the Jinn, the mischievous spirits better known as 'genies'; visit North Africa today, however, and you're more likely to see the grains being made by hand, usually by large groups of women.

Couscous is made from semolina. The process involves sprinkling water on to the flour, rubbing or rolling it by hand into tiny balls, and then drying. Despite being treated as a grain, it's made from durum wheat and is, strictly speaking, more closely related to pasta.

Versatile grain

Since it comes in dried form, couscous is endlessly practical - whether in the deserts of North Africa or the kitchen store-cupboards of North Acton. It's also free of fat and cholesterol, so makes a filling yet healthy basis for many African- and Mediterranean-influenced salads and meat dishes.

Couscous has become popular in Britain over the last 10 years or so, riding the same culinary wave as pesto, sun-dried tomatoes and extra-virgin olive oil. It can be served hot or cold and although it is usually thought of as a savoury dish, you can add dried fruits such as raisins, cherries or apricots and nuts to give it a touch of sweetness.

Traditional couscous needs soaking and steaming to reconstitute the grains and this is done in a 'couscoussier', kind of a double boiler, the top part having tiny holes to let the steam in. But it's also possible to buy pre-cooked couscous - simply soak it in boiled water or stock for a matter of minutes - making the job easier and a lot quicker.

Once the grains have absorbed the liquid, you can fluff it up with a fork, ready for adornment. This is the type most widely available in stores today and the kind used in the following recipes.