Crunch time: Apples in autumn

The signs are everywhere – the days are cooler, the nights are drawing in, and the kids are back in school. It must be apple season, says Terry Farris, who presents the buyer’s guide to Europe’s most important fruit

Apples were one of the first fruits to be cultivated, and there are now thousands of varieties grown. They’re probably the most consumed fruit in the western world, having found a home in both sweet and savoury dishes. And on their own, unpeeled, they are the original ‘fast food’, containing a good amount of vitamins A and C, as well as fibre.

A-peeling ingredient
In addition to their ancient history, excellent shelf life and health benefits, apples are probably the most versatile of all fruits when it comes to cooking. From cakes, jams, pies, sauces and even meat dishes and stews, apples shine on their own or blend happily with other foods and flavours.

They go particularly well with pork, chicken, goose and most of the autumn game available at this time of year. In parts of northern Europe, they are even served with fish. And don’t forget the famous cider of the West Country, and Calvados, the apple brandy from Normandy in France.

Try these apple recipes:

Over the page: Buying the best

Buying apples
When buying apples, make sure they’re free from blemishes or breaks in the skin, which can encourage spoilage and decay. If you’re lucky enough to have an apple tree in the garden (or are given a basketful) store them in a cool, dark, dry place, well-spaced so they don’t touch each other.

Given that there are thousands of named varieties of apples out there, it’s fortunate that certain ones have ‘bobbed to the top’ of popularity. Each is distinctive in size, colour, texture, country of origin and – most important of all – flavour.

It’s a case of ‘horses for courses’ when choosing which variety to eat or cook with. To help you choose the right apple for the job, here’s an A to Z of apples available in our supermarkets and greengrocers.

Bramley’s Seedling
Commonly just called Bramley, this variety is the most popular and best selling cooking apple in Britain. Large, green and slightly irregular in shape, Bramley’s soften quickly when cooked, making them the one to choose for apple sauce and purées. They are on the ‘tart’ side so usually need a bit of sugar added.

Cox’s Orange Pippin
There are a number of ‘pippins’ but Cox’s have emerged as Britain’s favourite. They have a crisp texture, are acidic, but also sweet, and are at home in baked dishes as well as on a cheese board.

DeliciousThe best-known and best-selling American apple, this variety is a deep red and has a long, rather than plump shape. It has a sweet flavour, but because of a lack of natural acid, is rather insipid.

Flower of KentHard to find and mainly forgotten, this apple is interesting in that it’s said to be the variety that (while falling) inspired Sir Isaac Newton’s law of gravity.

Over the page: Golden Delicious

Golden Delicious
Neither ‘golden’ nor ‘delicious’, this pale green American apple ranges in quality and taste, depending on what type of climate it is grown in. At its best, the texture is crisp and light, but over time the flesh can become limp and flabby. It’s good for dishes where the slices are arranged in patterns on top because it holds its shape well when cooked. Despite its name, it’s not related to the red variety of Delicious.

Granny Smith
Bright green in colour, this is an ideal apple for cakes and tarts. It has a crisp and juicy texture and a unique, almost almond-like flavour.

James Grieve
An English eating or ‘dessert’ apple, juicy and balanced in flavour.

Laxton
A large group of British apples, with many similarities to Cox’s. They have a light flavour and a crispy texture, and are good for most baking and cooking, both sweet and savoury.

Mutsu
Called ‘Crispin’ in Britain, this Japanese apple was developed from the Golden Delicious variety but has a better, more acidic flavour. Fine for cooking as well as eating.

Russet
A group of apples characterised by a matt brown skin. In Britain, Egremont and Royal russets are the most popular. They have a crisp texture, keep well over time and have an unusual pear-like flavour.

Worcester Pearmain
With mixed red and green colouring, pearmain is thought to be the oldest apple name in Britain. The Worcester variety is crisp and sweet and has a hint of strawberry in its flavour. They are good for both cooking and eating but don’t keep as well as some other varieties.