Nail it down: are artificial nails for you?

Can’t stand the cracking, splitting and breaking any longer? It could be time to try on some fake nails for size

Artificial nails are a good option if you bite your nails or have trouble growing them. Some women try fake ones strictly to kick their habit, while others simply want beautiful, low maintenance nails that can endure the wear and tear of daily tasks.

If applied and removed correctly, artificial nails will do little damage to your natural nails, but they won't make them healthier. Nail expert Deborah Lippmann, says: ‘Applying artificial nails is like colouring your hair – once you start, it can be a lifetime commitment. When you stop, your nails will look the same as before, just as your hair will go back to its normal shade if you stop colouring it.’

Artificial nails aren’t like a regular manicure that you get occasionally. As Lippman explains, ‘You need to have the artificial ones touched up every few weeks to prevent nail lift-off.’ This occurs when the nail glue weakens and the artificial nails peel off from your natural nails. There is another reason to see your manicurist regularly: if water gets trapped under your fake nails, your real nails can develop a fungal infection and turn green. You’ll also need regular manicurist appointments to fill in the artificial nails as they grow out with your natural ones. If you want to have them taken off, the safest, easiest way is to go to the salon, have them soaked and then gently removed by a manicurist.

Although artificial nails vary there is no ‘best’ type. Talk to your manicurist to find out what type he or she prefers, or find someone who’s an expert in applying the type of nail you want. Here are the most common types:

Sculptured Nails
In this process, acrylic, gel or fibreglass is applied to your natural nails, and the material is lengthened and sculpted over small pieces of metal or foil. Alternatively, a plastic nail tip can be applied with glue, then gel, fibreglass, silk or acrylic can be laid over the entire nail. As the natural nail grows out, your manicurist will fill in the base and file down the artificial tip. Eventually, you will end up with just the overlay on your natural nail.

Acrylic Nails
These are the strongest and last the longest of all nail overlays. But, if they are not applied properly, they can look thick and very fake. Find a manicurist who is an expert at applying acrylic nails, and he or she can make them look thin and natural. They usually need to be filled in every two to three weeks as your nails grow, but if you are hard on them, you may need to see the manicurist more often to avoid nail loosening. This will also lead to mildew if water gets trapped underneath. If a professional removes them, the acrylic nails should cause little weakening to the nail plate. One factor that might make you choose acrylic: It’s the most commonly-used artificial nail; if you travel frequently, it will be easier for you to find a place to repair or fill in your manicure.

Silk, Linen and Fibre Wraps
Wraps are pieces of silk, linen or fibreglass that have been cut to a desired shape and glued to the nail plate. This adds strength, and sometimes length, to the nail. Also though applied on top of natural nails, wraps are most commonly used to strengthen tips. Silk is the most natural-looking wrap and provides a lot of flexibility, but it is often too delicate for those with an active lifestyle. Linen is stronger, but not transparent and appears quite thick. Fibreglass provides the best of both worlds since it gives the natural look of silk and the strength of linen.

Gel Nails
Once, these nails were made of dental porcelain gel-powder. Now, manicurists use a Mylar form to sculpt your nail, and then cure – or set – it under an ultraviolet light. Because of this process, gel nails may need to be filled in less often than acrylic ones, although fill-ins are still necessary, and a professional must remove the tips. This type of artificial nail may not be ideal for those who type a lot, as constant contact with a keyboard can cause the gel seal around the nail to crack and break.