There's more to the simple mushroom than meets the eye. Terry Farris unearths some mouth-watering meal ideas

Whoever first thought of eating mushrooms must have learned by trial and error - they can be delicious or deadly, depending on the variety. Edible mushrooms have played a part in cooking all over the world for centuries, and especially today when so many varieties are cultivated. However, the most desirable mushrooms require a delicate balance of conditions that have, so far, been impossible to recreate in a cultivated environment. Therefore they must be picked in the wild.

The collection of wild mushrooms is practised by many European countries, including Russia, but less so in Britain and Ireland, though many edible wild mushrooms exist in the woods and fields of the UK. Great care must be taken when picking and eating wild mushrooms, as many species are deadly poisonous. If you're not sure, always have them checked by an expert first.

The number of different varieties of mushrooms available in the supermarkets today is growing all the time. They include the ordinary closed cap, button, field or portabella mushroom, cep or porcini, chanterelle, chestnut, oyster, morel, shitake, straw mushroom, and many more. Some are available in dried form, allowing for a longer shelf life. These are reconstituted by adding hot liquid and are usually used in dishes like risotto or stew.

Keeping mushrooms happy
Fresh mushrooms should be kept dry and preferably stored in brown paper instead of plastic bags. Choose firm ones with no blemishes or brown spots, which indicate they have been sitting around for a while. There's no need to wash mushrooms, as they easily absorb water. Peeling is also unnecessary. Simply brush them or wipe them clean with damp kitchen paper.

Use mushrooms to enhance an endless variety of cooked dishes, from omelettes, soups and stews to sauces, stuffings, risotto, jacket potatoes and pilaffs. Eat them stuffed and baked, deep fried or grilled as part of the classic British fry-up breakfast. They can also be used raw in salads or simply eaten on their own, sauteed in a little butter and garlic.

Mushrooms as starters

French Cream of Mushroom Soup
This method is slightly more time-consuming, but since mushrooms should never be overcooked, it is best to cook them separately before adding to the soup.

Ingredients:
450g closed cap mushrooms
75g butter
2 shallots or 1 small onion, finely chopped
25g flour
1.5 litres chicken or vegetable stock
2 sprigs fresh parsley
2 sprigs fresh thyme
1 bay leaf
juice of half a lemon
150ml double or whipping cream
salt and black pepper

Directions:
1. Cut the stems from the mushrooms, chop and set aside. Slice the caps.

2. Heat half of the butter in a large saucepan and gently fry the shallots or onion until soft but not coloured ? about 5 minutes. Sprinkle in the flour, stir and cook for two minutes. Slowly stir in the stock, add the mushroom stems and herbs and simmer for 20 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, heat the rest of the butter in a large frying pan and saute the sliced mushroom caps, covered for 5 minutes, until soft. Add the lemon juice and season with salt and pepper.

4. Strain the soup stock, pressing through the sieve with a wooden spoon, and discard the stems and herbs. Return to the saucepan and add the cooked mushrooms, along with their juices. Add the cream and heat gently for 10 minutes. Taste for seasoning, adding more salt, pepper or lemon juice, as required.

Note: if you prefer a smooth soup, liquidise after adding the mushrooms, then stir in the cream and seasoning.

Deep-fried Mushrooms with Spinach and Bacon
Ingredients:
20-24 medium-size closed cap mushrooms
300g fresh spinach, washed and stems removed
3 slices streaky bacon (smoked or unsmoked), finely chopped
salt and black pepper
freshly grated nutmeg
3 tbsp flour
2 eggs, lightly beaten
5-6 tbsp dried breadcrumbs
oil for frying

Directions:
1. First, carefully cut out the stems from the mushroom caps so there is a dip on the underside to hold the stuffing. Discard the stems.

2. Place the washed spinach in a saucepan (no need to add water) and cook until wilted, about 2-3 minutes. Place the spinach between two large plates and squeeze out as much water as possible. Chop the spinach and place in a bowl.

3. Fry the bacon pieces in a small frying pan or in the microwave until done but not too crispy. Mix into the spinach and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg.

4. Stuff the mushroom caps with the spinach mixture, using a teaspoon and pressing lightly to keep the stuffing in place, making a little mound on top.

5. Take three shallow bowls and place the flour, eggs and breadcrumbs in each. Coat the mushrooms first in the flour, then dip in the egg and coat with the breadcrumbs. Repeat till all the mushrooms are coated, taking care not to dislodge the stuffing.

6. You can now store the mushrooms in the fridge until ready to cook and serve.

7. Using a deep fat fryer or saucepan with at least 4cm of oil, heat the oil over a medium heat and fry the mushrooms, in batches, for about 2-4 minutes or until golden brown. It may help to fry one first and check for doneness, adjusting the heat of the fryer accordingly.

8. Serve as a canape or on a bed of lemony-dressed lettuce or rocket as a starter.

Mushroom mains

Mushroom, Leek and Chickpea Burgers with Red Onion Marmalade
Ingredients:
450g chestnut or closed cap mushrooms
1 medium leek
2 tbsp light oil
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 and a half tsp ground cumin
1 and a half tsp ground coriander
1 x 400g tin chickpeas, drained and rinsed
salt and black pepper
2-3 tbsp oil for frying

For the Red Onion Marmalade
500g red onions (2 large or 3 medium size), halved and sliced into half rings
3 tbsp olive oil
salt and black pepper
200ml red wine
2 tbsp balsamic vinegar
50g sugar
half tsp fresh thyme leaves

Directions:
1. First make the marmalade: heat the oil in a large frying pan and fry the onion over a medium heat for about 15 minutes until soft, stirring frequently. Season with salt and pepper and add the red wine, vinegar, sugar and thyme. Stir and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat and cook gently, stirring occasionally, until most of the liquid has gone and the onion mixture is dark, thick and sticky, about 30-35 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, chop the mushrooms finely by hand or in a food processor. (If using a food processor, do this in batches.) Trim the leek and cut in half horizontally, then slice thinly. Heat the oil and cook the mushrooms and leek for 5 minutes until soft, then stir in the garlic and spices and cook for another 5-10 minutes or until any liquid from the mushrooms has evaporated. The mixture should be as dry as possible.

3. Crush the chickpeas roughly with a fork or pulse in a food processor. Place in a bowl and add the mushroom mixture. When cool enough to handle, shape into 8 burgers. If you have time, place on a plate in the fridge to firm up ? this will help them hold together better for frying.

4. Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat and gently lay the burgers in the pan. You will have to do this in batches, depending on the size of the pan, adding more oil as needed and keeping them warm while you fry the next batch. They fall apart easily so the important thing is NOT to poke them with the spatula or palette knife until they have cooked for 4-5 minutes and have formed a crust on the bottom. Gently turn them over and fry the other side for another 3-4 minutes, trying not to move them too much.

5. To serve, divide the onion marmalade among 4 plates and lay 2 burgers on each.

Chilli Mushroom Stir-fry with Chinese Noodles
This is a great vegetarian meal, or stir-fry thin slices of pork or beef and add for meat eaters.

Ingredients:
15g dried porcini (cep) mushrooms
200g Chinese noodles
450g mixed selection of fresh mushrooms (for example: chestnut, closed cup, shitake, oyster)
2 tbsp groundnut oil
2 cloves garlic, sliced
1 red chilli, deseeded and chopped
1 and a half inch piece fresh root ginger, grated
4 spring onions, diagonally sliced
4 tbsp sake or dry sherry
4 tbsp soy sauce
juice of half a lemon
chopped fresh coriander

Directions:
1. Cover the dried mushrooms with 75ml of boiled water and soak for 15 minutes or until softened. Strain and reserve the liquid, then slice the mushrooms. Cook the noodles according to the packet instructions, drain and set aside.

2. Halve or quarter the fresh mushrooms, depending on size. Tear the oyster mushrooms, if using.

3. Heat the oil in a wok or large frying pan and add the garlic, chilli and ginger and stir-fry for 15 seconds or until they release their aroma. Add all the mushrooms and stir-fry for 2 minutes or until just softened.

4. Add the spring onions, sake or sherry, soy sauce, lemon juice and the reserved soaking liquid from the dried mushrooms. Bring to a quick boil, then add the noodles and coriander. Stir-fry for another minute to warm through and serve immediately.

Wild Mushroom Bulgur Pilaf with Almonds and Hazelnuts
Serve as a vegetarian main course or as an accompaniment to beef, lamb or chicken.

Ingredients:
1 onion, finely chopped
30g butter
300g bulgur (cracked) wheat
700ml vegetable stock (Marigold Swiss Bouillon powder is a good one)
1 tbsp olive oil
450g mixed wild mushrooms, sliced, quartered or torn, as appropriate
1 clove garlic, chopped
50g whole almonds
50g whole hazelnuts
small bunch of flat leaf parsley, chopped
salt and pepper

Directions:
1. Melt the butter in a large saucepan and fry the onion until soft. Add the bulgur wheat and cook, stirring frequently for 2 minutes. Add the stock, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer gently, covered for 10-15 minutes or until all the stock has been absorbed and the wheat is just done with still a little bite (al dente).

2. Meanwhile, heat a large frying pan and dry-fry the nuts over a medium heat until toasted. Alternatively, you can roast them in the oven or in the microwave. Remove from the pan, allow to cool, then chop.

3. Heat the oil in the same frying pan and fry the mushrooms until soft and lightly browned, about 5-7 minutes. Add the garlic, season with salt and pepper and cook for another minute. Spoon the mushrooms and any juices into the bulgur wheat, add the nuts and parsley and gently fold through to combine.