| The charm of the Cotswolds
by Annie Mills The Cotswolds have been described by Shakespeare as a tract of, 'high wild hills and rough uneven ways'. Four centuries on, the steep-sided, 50-mile long scarp of oolitic limestone which geologically defines the Cotswolds is still 'difficult' if attacked on foot, rising sheer from the flat vales surrounding it to a plateau of undulating hills (wolds) cut by precipitous wooded valleys. These surprisingly narrow cuts or cots have given their names to intimate, honey-stone villages tucked into the folds of the wolds - Idlicote, Condicote, Cutsdean and Hidcote - to name but a few. The Cotswolds' fortune was made from wool and the proceeds of sheep-farming found their way into beautifully situated Norman churches and Gothic-gabled manor houses hugging the river valleys of the Windrush, Leach, Coln and Churn, each of which boast their own Tudor, Elizabethan and Jacobean gems. One road in particular stands out - the Fosse Way - built in 50AD as a supply route for the Roman frontier. Straight as a die, up and down those 'difficult' hills it marches, all the way from Shakespeare's birthplace in Stratford-upon-Avon to Cirencester, where the roads to London and Colchester converged. Follow today that Roman Fosse and you'll find nearly all the highlights described below are only a minor detour from its course. The Manor house: Stanway House Fodors calls Stanway House "as perfect and pretty a Cotswold manor house as anyone is likely to see". Begun in Elizabethan times and completed in the Jacobean period (1580-1630), it first surprises the visitor with its extraordinary folly of a gatehouse and then enchants with its 14th century Tithe Barn (where the wealthy Abbey of Tewkesbury stored the grain paid in rent by an impoverished peasantry) and its 18th century cascading water gardens. An easy stroll from the Manor, along part of the ancient Cotswold Way, brings you to the delightful hamlet of Wood Stanway. Rather than attempting to hike up the adjacent Stanway Bank (a huffing and puffing affair), this writer suggests hiring a horse from Woodlands, the enthusiastically-run riding stables there, to experience the views from the summit -- on a clear day you can see to Wales. From here, the winding track down through the beech woods is a glorious sight in autumn. See Nearby: Hailes Abbey Stanway Manor - 01386 584469, open 2-5pm Tue + Thu in Jul and Aug The Pub Lunch: Churchill Arms, Paxford Opened on the same day as Tony Blair took office, in 1997, and patronised by New Labourites including Guardian editor Alan Rusbridger and Culture secretary Tessa Jowell, the Churchill Arms is that rare thing amongst gentrified country pubs: a local where locals still go, that attracts foodies in search of imaginative dishes using top, seasonal ingredients. The chef, Sonya Kidney, offers organically farmed fish, tasty steaks and excellent local lamb. High points are the thin, crispy, golden chips and a wonderfully gooey sticky toffee pudding. Locally brewed ales are also refreshing. Top tip: Get there either on the dot of 12.45 pm or 7.30pm to avoid waiting for a table. No bookings taken. See Nearby - Longborough Farm Shop Visit the Churchill Arms website. Hidcote Manor was described by its creator as a "wild garden in a formal setting", which perfectly sums up its schizophrenic qualities: precise and profuse, linear and lush. It has rightly acquired Holy Grail status in England, second only to Sissinghurst, as a garden which has influenced planting and design ever since. Vita Sackville-West described Hidcote as a "jungle of beauty" when she saw it some years after its foundation in 1907. Most famous for its red border, where flowers in every shade of red are mixed with pink and purple foliage plants, the result is a little like a fire dying on the hearth - slumbering embers which occasionally spark into passionate flame - and was indeed mildly scandalous in its early years. Across the road is the intriguing Kiftsgate Court which boasts a marvellous bluebell wood in April. See Nearby - Stratford-upon-Avon Hidcote's gardens is at its best between mid-June and mid-September, visit The National Trusts's website The Church: St Mary's, Fairford Well worth visiting is this classic 'wool' church, built of Cotswold stone in the perpendicular style in the 15th century. Its 28 precious stained glass are the only complete set of windows in England to have survived both the Reformation and the Commonwealth. During the Reformation the windows were whitewashed to disguise them and during the Civil War and the Second World War they were removed altogether for their protection. Stained glass windows were the 15th-century equivalent of comics, art galleries and TV rolled into one for the largely illiterate population. Bear this in mind when surveying the 30-foot "Doom Window", which depicts a terrifying Last Judgement. Christ raises the dead while the Devil claims his own. It is a thinly disguised message of propaganda to reinforce the Church's power over your afterlife. See Nearby - Great Coxwell Tithe Barn Visit Fairford's website. The Kids: Cotswold Farm Park & Batsford Falconry Centre Take the kids to meet and cuddle a variety of rare breed farm animals at the Farm Park of the Year 2003 (Good Britain Guide). They can learn to drive a miniature tractor, bottle feed pet lambs and snuffling piglets or take a ride on the Farm Safari. There are also lambing, shearing and milk demonstrations. Having hugged the lambs, the kids may be a little wary of birds of prey that like to eat them, but their fascination will override their fear at the Batsford Falconry Centre. See the trained falcons fly, and learn to balance an eagle or a snowy owl on your forearm -- this writer can testify that it is as exciting for adults as it is for the kids. The Arboretum next door has a beautiful walk. See Nearby - The Slaughters and the Swells For more information, visit the Cotswold Farm Park website. The Walk: Westonbirt Arboretum In the heart of Royal Gloucestershire, just miles from Highgrove and Badminton is one of the finest collections of trees and shrubs in the world. Wander 17 miles of trails through 600 landscaped acres and you can take in natural wonders aplenty. During spring, the rhododendrons, azaleas and magnolias are magnificent. In summer, recline in a leafy glade or stroll the Lime Walk to take in the fluorescence of the leaves. But autumn is really when the place comes into its own. Fabulous oranges, reds and golds grace the boughs of the maples, beeches and oaks, especially towards dusk when the fading light catches the colours best. Having said that, a turn in the park on a frosty winter day, especially in snow, is highly recommended when the brightly coloured stems of cherries, birches and dogwoods take centre stage. Christmas is lovely too, when fairy lights are draped through the branches to create a winter wonderland. See Nearby - Barnsley House For further details, visit Westonbirt Arboretum's website. |