Bigger may not always be better, but don't tell that to the spa at Pennyhill Park Hotel. It claims to be the biggest spa in England. Jennifer Howze found the stunning array of treatments and facilities do make a big impression

Pennyhill Park Hotel & The Spa
London Road, Bagshot
Surrey GU19 5EU
01276 471774

As a spa veteran, I've braved scrubdowns by a naked woman in a Moroccan hammam and sauntered my way around London's swishest spas, but some of Pennyhill's offerings surprised even me. The spa is housed in a separate sprawling building behind the stately Pennyhill Park Hotel. Inside, countless marble hallways lead to spacious treatment rooms, steam rooms, herbal saunas, specialty showers, hot tubs, swimming pools, dressing areas with valet services and a gym.

Cold Comfort?
Steam rooms, swimming pools and saunas, however splendid, are to be expected - I was after the more unusual treatments on offer and wasn't disappointed. An Ice Grotto - for use after a sauna or steam bath - has frozen walls four inches thick, with a ceiling meant to evoke the Northern Lights and an ice fountain producing flaked ice for scrubbing the skin. A Schnapps steam room uses aromas based on the famous alcohol. And if a facial or La Stone massage doesn't leave you feeling regal enough, you can climb onto a heated reflexology throne with massaging foot jets and pebbles.

A treat for two
There's even a wet treatment room for two that gives new meaning to a dirty weekend. Couples rub healing mud onto each other's skin or, ahem, soap up one another on the massage table while basking in essence-infused steam. Perform the treatments yourself or hire a therapist if you prefer a threesome.

I stayed in the fabulous hotel, which manages to carry off the combination of old-school comforts like four-posters and antique furnishings with new-fangled amenities like rainforest showers and heated bathroom floors. During my stay, I had a Lowana treatment (£102 for 75 minutes) - designed to recharge and relax, it's especially recommended during pregnancy. The treatment started with a smudging ceremony, in which lemon myrtle leaves were set alight, giving off a rich fragrance. Then my feet, hands and face in turn were massaged and anointed with oils designed to help rebalance your energy levels and restore your skin's vitality. I was eight months pregnant during my visit and afterwards I floated back to my room and had the first decent nap I'd had in months.

If my recommendation isn't luring you in, you might be interested to hear that Pennyhill Park Hotel is the base for the England rugby team. Unfortunately, the team maintains its own special areas at the spa, which means you won't run into Jonny Wilkinson in the mixed steam rooms. But even without the sight of rugby talent in a towel, Pennyhill gives you plenty of reasons to pay a visit.

Pennyhill is located about an hour south of London. Guests at the hotel pay £45 to use the facilities during their stay; if you book treatments, the £45 is waived. For more information about the hotel and spa, visit www.exclusivehotels.co.uk