Discover the real Big Apple with our streetwise guide to the city that never sleeps.
They say when in Rome, do as the Romans do, but it's really not all that difficult, is it? Eat a little gelato, pinch a few bottoms, and you're done for the day. Doing as New Yorkers do is a little more challenging because it means being a know-it-all. In the interest of assimilation, here we provide a crash course for every street-smart visitor who wants to enjoy the city to the hilt
Travel like a New Yorker
Think location like a New Yorker
Eat like a New Yorker
Do culture like a New Yorker
Commute like a New Yorker
Act like a New Yorker
Newark International Airport, just across the Hudson River, can be cheaper and is definitely more civilised than LaGuardia and JFK. Newark's Airtrain connects with NJ Transit straight into Penn Station for less than £10. But wait, flying into New Jersey? Fugghedabboudit - it's quicker and easier than you'd think. (Bonus points: Complain about the traffic even if you take the train.)
That means choosing the right neighbourhood, personality-wise, for your stay. The city has cheap accommodations all over, so choose your area according to your interests:
East Village (East 14th St to Houston, east of Broadway) - A homeless riot here in the late 1980s has given way to lots of clubs, bars and tattooed 'musicians'. It's also home to the coolest bookshop in town, St. Mark's Bookshop (31 3rd Ave; +1.212.260.7853). St. Mark's Street (a.k.a. 8th Street) between 2nd and 3rd Avenues has masses of street life and shops selling cheap clothing and jewellery. Attractions: Cheap eats, post-university bar scene, St. Mark's Street.
West Village (East 14th St to Houston, west of 6th Ave) - Old-style New York architecture, lots of tourists, and the weird and wonderful characters in Washington Square Park. Attractions: cafes, bars, restaurants, shops.
Lower East Side (Between Houston and Grand St, east of Chrystie St) - This area is also known as the Bowery and used to be rough and unpalatable. So naturally it's now brimming with hip bars, boutiques and eateries. Try El Sombrero (regulars call it The Hat) for late-night Mexican food and margaritas in a grubby but groovy environment (108 Stanton St at Ludlow St, +1.212.254.4188). Attractions: The Lower East Side Tenement Museum, trendy boutiques, nightlife.
SoHo - Once an artists' enclave, now SoHo seems totally given over to fancy-pants art galleries and pricey boutiques. Shopping here on a Saturday is a combat sport, but also loads of fun. Great to wander on a Sunday morning before stopping for brunch. Try super-trendy Balthazar for fabulous croissants (80 Spring St between Broadway and Crosby St; +1.212.965.1414) or the more low-key Cupping Room Café (359 W. Broadway between Broome and Grand Sts, +1.212.925.2898). Attractions: Shops, galleries and all the other people.
TriBeCa (Centre St to the Hudson River below Canal a.k.a. the TRIangle BElow CAnal) - It's been reported that between 1970 and 1980 the population of TriBeCa jumped from 243 to 5,101, most of them hopelessly hip. Join their ranks by strolling the streets, enjoying the old architecture and surfeit of eateries and bars. Attractions: Tribeca Film Center (Robert De Niro's a co-founder).
The Meatpacking District - the anointed hot neighbourhood with stockbroker prices at the clubs, restaurant and apartment buildings. You might also come across some hookers who haven't gotten the gentrification memo. Book a table in advance at Pastis (9 Ninth Av. at Little W 12th St.;+1.212.929.4844) to join the celebs-and-fatcats scene. Or hit the more affordable all-night French diner Florent (69 Gansevoort St between Greenwich and Washington Sts; +1.212.989.5779). The infamous Hellfire sex club is also round here (28 Ninth Ave at 14th St; +1.212.647.0063). Attractions: Edgy, pricey hipster scene.
Upper West Side (West 60s to West 90s) - This liberal yuppie enclave retains some of its bohemian and intellectual roots. Here you'll find the kind of folks who would listen to the BBC's Radio 4 if they lived in the UK. Attractions: The American Museum of Natural History, Central Park, Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts, the IMAX theatre, Central Park
Near Columbia University (Broadway at W. 115th St) - Also known as Morningside Heights, this is great area for student bars, cheap accommodation (including a well-situated hostel) and simple but affordable eateries. Attractions: University vibe.
Upper East Side (East 60s to East 90s) - Society matrons walk their tiny dogs on Park Avenue and well-heeled shoppers troll the boutiques on Madison Avenue. The area between York and Third Avenues affords more colourful and occasionally seedier types. Attractions: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum, The Whitney Museum of American Art, shopping, Central Park
Zabar's - You haven't been initiated into New York life until you've shopped for smoked salmon and cream cheese at this food emporium on the Upper West Side. Fabulous cheeses, breads, meats, sweets - pick up lunch then walk over to Central Park three avenues away (2245 Broadway at 80th St; +1.212.787.2000).
H&H Bagels - Next door to Zabar's sits the finest bagelmaker in NYC. Pop in anytime. They're open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. (2239 Broadway at 80th St; +1.212.595.8003).
Grimaldi's Pizza - What makes a perfect pizza is a matter of much debate in New York, but Grimaldi's, also known as Patsy's Pizza, is the pie on everybody's lips. This popular restaurant is in Brooklyn, so make an afternoon or evening of it by walking across the Brooklyn Bridge then finding your way down to this riverside joint (hint: take a map or a native or you're likely to get lost). Bring cash, because they don't take credit cards, and be prepared for a wait. (19 Old Fulton St between Front and Water Sts, Brooklyn; +1.718.858.4300).
The New York woman's secret to looking so good is on practically every street corner: the neighbourhood nail salon. These all-purpose, no-frills beauty pit stops are usually staffed with Asian or Eastern European women, and they provide affordable manicures (as low as $7 - about £4), pedicures and waxings. Everyone from lowly administrative assistants to highly placed beauty editors take advantage of them. Book an appointment or just walk in, as long as you don't mind waiting a bit. You pay after the manicure but before the polish application (so no smudges). Tipping is a necessity and 15% to 20% is customary, more if you've gotten particularly good service. To find a good one, ask any New York women you know - they'll undoubtedly have a favourite. Mine is Dyanna (150 E. 39th St; +1.212.213.0011), which performs nearly painless bikini waxes. Alternatively, stop by one that looks busy and clean.
A financial bigshot got caught several years ago donating money to the 92nd St Y in a bid to get his child a place in its highly regarded nursery (price tag: $15,000+ per year for 4-year-olds). You can hardly blame him. This centre, founded in 1874 as the Young Men's Hebrew Association, is a venerable community and cultural institution, with events, lectures, classes, childcare programs, and more - all of the highest standard. Get tickets to an event during you stay, if you can (1395 Lexington Ave; +1.212.415.5500).
That means take the subway. Once a scary filthy underground underworld, the New York City subway system is now cleaned up, reliable and the best way to get around the island quickly. Most lines and stations in centralised locations (ie, Manhattan and downtown Brooklyn) are safe to take until 2am or so - in fact some lines are crowded after the bars close. Avoid lines and stations in less central areas like outer Brooklyn and Queens, the far west side of Manhattan and Wall Street in the wee hours, though. Why take a chance, right?
New Yorkers refer to the lines by letter or number - 'Take the 1/9 to Christopher Street' or 'Transfer from the C local to the A express at West Fourth Street station' - and subway and area maps are posted at most stations. Even though the city is friendlier these days, don't sit on the subway holding an unfolded full-size map as you work out your route. You may attract scam artists (who are more annoying than menacing) and you'll definitely look like a dork. Instead, study the map that's posted near one of the doors in every subway car. If someone is sitting below it, just act like a true local and lean in to read it over their head.
Fare for a subway or local bus ride is $2, for an express bus, $4. There are reduced fares for mobility-impaired and senior citizens, and up to three children under 44 inches in height ride free with a paying adult. Buy a Metrocard, which you can use on the subway or bus and comes in unlimited ride or pay-per-ride versions. The $7 one-day and $21 seven-day unlimited ride Metrocards are a great value for exploring the city and they work on buses too. You can buy these from token booths or kiosks at subway stations.
- When calling numbers in New York City, you have to include the area code: 212 for Manhattan, 718 for Brooklyn and Queens.
- Always ask for the cross street when getting addresses. It will save you loads of shoe leather.
- Know your order before you get in line at the deli.
- Learn these important phrases:
'That place is so bridge-and-tunnel' - A derogatory description for bars, restaurants, etc because of their popularity with New Jersey and outer borough residents
'I'm on the list' - Please, as if they need to ask.
'Thank you, darling. Fancy a snog?' - The appropriate response to cute New Yorkers who say they 'love your accent'.
For more information, visit New York's official tourism website.
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