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Lots of beach destinations promise respite from daily life - yet are mobbed with tourists and developed to their eye-teeth. Discover calmer shores
Grand Turk can't help itself. Despite its efforts to develop and attract a party crowd, this island remains one of the least explored and quietest destinations in the Caribbean. Forget about blaring nightlife, package tours and endless buffets. Here you'll only find uncrowded white sandy beaches and some of the best scuba diving in the Western Hemisphere.
What it's like
Grand Turk is one of eight inhabited islands that make up the small country of Turks and Caicos and has been the seat of the country's government since 1766. The capital, Cockburn Town, comes complete with faded colonial architecture and a smattering of municipal establishments, but population-wise, Grand Turk only accounts for 20 per cent of the entire population of Turks and Caicos. Most citizens, or 'belongers' as they are called here, now live on the rapidly developing island of Providenciales. Just a few decades ago, only about 500 people lived in Provo, as the locals call it, but now, due to a booming tourist industry with over ten resorts, dozens of hotels and inns, two golf courses, and three shopping centres, it is now the most densely populated island in the country. Grand Turk, on the other hand, used to be home to the largest proportion of belongers, but that number has dropped precipitously over the past few decades, leaving behind a tranquil backwater for those looking to escape from the crowds.
What remains are a few sleepy, fading colonial streets, where wild horses and donkeys (not to mention stray dogs) roam free (if languidly), and a handful of inexpensive hotels, most overlooking the startlingly clear turquoise waters. There are a handful of small hotels and villas for rent to the steady trickle of tourists who pass through - most of whom are looking for a true getaway from the hustle and bustle along with the superb diving along the 'Wall' less than ten minutes off the shore. Now is the time to get there, for the secret is out. Carnival Cruise Lines has already begun to develop a dock and inland shopping area for its ships. The good news is the addition of a new Bohio resort, which has partnered with the designer of the uber-luxurious Parrot Cay Resort to develop an upscale dive resort and spa far from the proposed cruise line development.
But seekers of the unbeaten path fear not. Even with that burgeoning development, there is plenty of Grand Turk sleepiness to go around.
Don't miss
The best part of Grand Turk is the water and diving. Just a few hundred feet from the shore, the ocean floor drops precipitously to 7,000 feet, creating an amazing wall to explore. There you are likely to see turtles, rays, plenty of groupers, wrasse and other colourful delights. In addition there is a wide array of coral, among the healthiest in the hemisphere. Even if you are not ready to strap on an air tank, there is plenty to see just by snorkeling on the surface above. There are three dive shops - each of which has a full complement of scuba or snorkeling gear for rent.
There are two delightful day trips to be had. One is to the uninhabited Gibbs Cay. Just a mile from Grand Turk, here the primary residents are families of stingrays, who will happily swim beside you and even more happily take fish straight from your palm. Some of the local dive shops offer afternoon picnic excursions to Gibbs Cay, including fresh ceviche made from conch that the guides and any willing tourists dive for themselves. The other excursion is a short 25 minute boat ride (or less by plane) to Salt Cay - yet another underdeveloped wonder. On this tiny outback (resident population around 50), mules outnumber people and golf carts are the primary means of transportation.
Grand Turk is also known for its whale watching. The main season runs from late January through March, when you are likely spot a humpback whale from your beach blanket as they take part in an annual migration from the North Atlantic to the Silver Banks.
If you are lucky, you may even get an opportunity to swim and snorkel with the whales - just be sure to give them a lot of room. These creatures are beautiful but enormous and a stray flick of a whale's tail is not a comfortable way to end a vacation.
On Grand Turk, there are smattering of additional activities, just enough to avoid restlessness. The Turks and Caicos National Museum provides background on the islands history. There is a lighthouse on one end of the island with breathtaking views. And of course, there are the Salinas.
Once home to a slavery era salt trade, the numerous Salinas, also known as salt ponds, dominate the town centre. Though no longer in use, they are testament to the rich, if painful, history that first brought development to the area.
Who likes it
Grand Turk is first and foremost a diving destination, offering world class diving yet with conditions suitable for beginners to advanced divers. The reef is part of a protected marine park, so there are few boats or other disturbances to the serene underwater life. But, while the inland is fairly barren and covered with scrubby vegetation, there is plenty to do for non-divers as well. The coral reefs and the fish are rich enough that snorkeling can be a very satisfying excursion. There is plenty of uncrowded beachfront for anyone to unwind, possibly without seeing another soul for hours on end.
Food and drink
Almost all of the food on Grand Turk is imported from Provo or the States, making for pricey menus and limited selection. That said, there are still some good, if mellow, times to be had. Along Front Street, there are a number of dining and drinking establishments right on the water, and if the fish market is open that day, you'll find fresh fish on the menu. Most of the offerings lean toward American tastes, with hamburgers, steaks, and pasta. But there are always a few Caribbean options on the menus, such as conch chowders and jerk chicken.
A number of the hotels offer kitchenettes with their rooms, and there are a few sparse but adequate grocery stores to be found. But beware, at last sighting, a small bag of fresh cherries cost the equivalent of about five and a half pounds.
Travel
Grand Turk is an easy 30-minute flight from Provo. A number of major carriers fly to Provo, including British Airways, which offers a weekly flight from London. Air Canada has a direct flight from Toronto. A number of US carriers fly direct from Miami, and American Airlines flies from New York's JFK as well.
Once on Grand Turk, if you are staying on the waterfront, there is little use for a car. But if you choose to stay further from the centre of Cockburn Town, hotels such as the Island House give you the use of a pick-up truck free of charge. Additionally, there are a few taxi services and car and scooter rental agencies, as well as bike rentals.
Best beaches
Governor's Beach is the pride of the town, stretching down the west side of the island. The water here is usually calm and clear enough to snorkel just steps from your blanket. On the downside, there is a large pier being built nearby which will soon be the docking location for cruise ships.
Hotels
At present there are only about a dozen different accommodations to choose from, ranging from a few individual homes and apartments for rent to bed and breakfasts and small family-run hotels. There are no five star accommodations on the island as yet, but here are a few very decent, clean, and well-run recommendations:
- The Osprey Beach has the best location with well-appointed rooms overlooking the beach
- The Salt Raker, across the street from the beach, is also a good choice, if a bit shabby.
- A bit off the beach is the Island House - the friendly host Colin and his daughter, Donna, will treat you to great bits of local insight and the room rental includes use of pick-up truck to get around. Rooms include kitchenettes, and the house has a good view and a pool
- The addition of the Bohio Resort will add an upscale choice-complete with diving and a spa. (Opening date not likely until late 2005)
Nightlife
While there isn't much of a club or bar scene to speak of, there is always plenty of lively conversation and spirits to be had at the newly opened Sand Bar, right on the waterfront in the middle of Cockburn Town. Just a few steps away, The Water's Edge also serves good food and has occasional music. The island boasts a dive master cum acoustic rocker, Mitch Rollins, who plays classic rock at the Osprey Hotel and Salt Raker Inn. But don't forget to bring a good book, for the real draw is the quiet evenings and plenty of opportunity to unwind.
Kids in Tow
At present, Grand Turk isn't chock full of children-oriented adventures, although whale sightings and swimming with sting rays are sure to thrill all ages. If you are looking for a family vacation, you probably better served in the more modernised and accessorised island of Providenciales, which boasts excursions just for kids, playgrounds, and a number of high quality all-inclusive resorts.
Dive shops
All three dive shops offer similar opportunities to explore the nearby reefs. Oasis Divers seems to have the best equipment.
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