My girlfriends all giggled when I told them I was off to somewhere called Fujairah (pronounced Fu-JAI-ruh), but this Middle Eastern emirate is the home to a whole host of desert and sea adventures without the hustle bustle and glitz of its better known sister Dubai

I've never had much desire to visit the Middle East. My more affluent friends have sung the praises of Dubai to me on many occasions (a place, it would seem, where all that glitters most probably is gold), but rumours of constant development and high-end consumerism have always kept me away.

So when fate landed me at Dubai airport, awaiting my pick-up to the neighbouring emirate Fujairah, in the dense heat with the echoing sounds of the call to prayer ringing eerily through the air, I felt an increasing sense of curiosity and intrigue.

I was staying at the le Meridian Al Aqah Beach Resort in Fujairah, approximately 1 hour 45 minutes from Dubai airport, a time soon to be greatly reduced by the development of new roads connecting the two emirates. The United Arab Emirates (UAE) formed in 1971, and is a state consisting of 7 independently governed kingdoms, or emirates. Each of the emirates is ruled as a sovereign state, lead by the head, or Sheikh, of the leading family that first settled there.

Fujairah is unique in that it lies on the eastern side of the UAE, along the gulf of Oman, while its six siblings are situated along the Arabian Gulf. Because of its positioning, the Fujairan coast enjoys a pleasant climate, calm clear seas and - with the imposing Hajar mountain range dividing Fujairah from the rest of the country - an impressive towering backdrop, in place of the vast desert landscapes of its neighbours.

One of the highlights of my trip was an excursion into the desert organised by the hotel with activity company, Arabian Adventures. We were taken to the Margham Desert and the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve in 4x4s with our safari guide, Marvin. Here I got my first true taste of Arabian desert, amid rolling monochromatic sand dunes, pockmarked only by the occasional camel wandering snootily past my window or munching on the odd acacia tree that punctuated the arid backdrop.

At the entrance to the reserve we met up with around 20 other 4x4s. I didn't understand why we needed to travel in convoy at first, but I soon found out. The journey across the sand dunes deeper into the desert was an exhilarating rollercoaster ride as our highly skilled guide navigated his way up and down the dunes - one minute flying upwards to the summit, and the next sliding down the other side with our stomachs left some distance behind. A couple of times one of the 4x4s got stranded on the apex of a dune, listing precariously like a grounded ship, but giving us the perfect opportunity to step out onto the sand and take in the incredible surroundings while Marvin went to the rescue.

En route we stopped at a camel farm, and took coffee with the Bedouin leader who was dressed head to toe in traditional white robes and headdress. He had a dark, mysterious face with deep crevices that spoke volumes of both his lifestyle and his authority. Since the emirates independence, the Bedouin live in improved conditions as the government provides them with housing and money to develop and install essentials such as air conditioning in their homes. This tribe however, still lived in the desert and bred camels, which - thanks to the popular Arabic camel racing tradition - can be a relatively lucrative business. So taken with the magic and mystery of the desert was I that when this dark, mystical (and clearly financially stable) man offered Marvin three camels for me, I was pretty chuffed... if not a bit tempted.

Deeper into the desert we went, and as the sun came down it cast a mesmerising orange glow over the rippling sand dunes, and I couldn't shake the sense that there was something magical in the air, so vast and impressive, where life is hard, but with a distinct sense of living in harmony with the yin and yang of the land, the harsh heat and arid conditions, balanced by its vastness and beauty.

As it got dark, we arrived at a clearing haloed in shimmering lights, and a heady smell of aromatic shisha (like a kebab) scented the air. The encampment encapsulated the Arabian nights image, lined with colourful bedu tents and awnings, with low cushions and rugs on the sand to lounge about on while eating a sumptuous buffet meal of grilled meats, salads and Arabian sweets with a glass of wine or beer.

After the meal a belly dancer appeared in the centre of the encampment and began a bewitching dance to haunting Arabic music. Her energetic hip gyrations and catcalling was mesmerising, if not slightly terrifying. With midnight camel rides, Hookah pipes and henna painting all on offer, it made for a unique and adventurous night out.

Le Meridien Al Aqah Beach resort is (at time of writing) one of three resort hotels, and boasts the largest free-form swimming pool in the country. The hotel has two spas with a myriad of treatments ranging from dreamy and relaxing Egyptian massages to invigorating Ayurvedic therapies. For fun seekers, the resort hosts a wide range of activities for visitors, such as diving, snorkelling, volleyball, waterskiing and sailing.

I went on a wonderful snorkelling trip. For divers and snorkellers, Fujairah is the place to go. I have dived on the barrier reef, Malaysia and Thailand, but never have I witnessed such a diverse fauna of aquatic life as I did snorkelling off the coast of Fujairah. We were met on the boat by keen divers who were staying in Dubai, but had spent the last two hours on the boat to getting to the dive site. It took us about 20 minutes!

There are a few great sites for diving, and diving novices can get instruction at le Meridian Al Aqah's dive centre from the safety of the pool before venturing out into the open water. At one point I was following a school of around seven or eight black tip reef sharks, which was a completely new experience for me, and the turtles were great fun, and very friendly. They didn't mind me catching a lift on their back in return for a good scratch on the neck!

My days usually began with a couple of hours of hardcore lazing by the enormous pool before being treated to a delicious lunch of fresh lobster in the Baywatch restaurant, which makes up part of the outdoor Baywatch Village, replete with pool bar for those who can't be bothered to leave the pool for a top-up.

Le Meridien Al Aqah Beach Resort boasts four eateries. I ate a fantastic evening meal in the Swaad restaurant, which specialises in innovative Indian cuisine and the masala tea (perfected with much debate from the cheerful staff) is a must. The Views restaurant hosts a magnificent buffet breakfast, with trays of succulent mango, orange, mandarin and melons. The Taste restaurant has impressive views across the pool and beach, and offers decadent Thai fusion cooking, book early though as it can get busy! For light refreshments there is a lobby tea and dates pastry shop (dates being a traditional Arabic delicacy) perfect to refresh after a long day seeing the sites, or lazing by the pool. Don't miss Astros rooftop bar, where you can enjoy a cool cocktail while taking in the awesome views out to sea.

The resort is very child-friendly and kids of all ages can spend the day at the Penguin club which has three trained staff; a nurse, a teacher and a language therapist. Here, the kids can enjoy their own little luxuries, with a covered pool to protect from the sun, indoor play rooms, a climbing frame and much more. It is shaded and well maintained, and when I popped in the kids were having a whale of a time. The Penguin club closes at 6pm, but parents can book a babysitter for the evening through the hotel concierge.

Arabian Adventures has a varied menu of tours and safaris on offer. There are some incredible historic landmarks hidden in Fujairah, and visitors would be well advised to get out and about with Arabian Adventures for a half-day sight seeing tour. I visited the Al Bidya Mosque which is thought to be built in 1446, and is one of the oldest and most famous 'Ottoman' Mosques. It is unique in its design with four individual domes supported by one central pillar. The building has a serenity about it and is the source of a deep sense of local pride and history. A small climb up from the mosque to the old fortress provides some stunning views across the surrounding areas.

I also visited the fish market and the Friday market a few miles from Masafi. The Friday market is crammed with colourful wooden shacks with canvas roofs, hosting an array of produce from beautifully crafted rugs and carpets, to seas of colourful fruits such as pomegranate, mango and lychee. Many of the traders are local farmers and have a wonderful sense of spirit and fun, I had a great time practicing my bartering skills and thought I had bagged a real bargain buying two sweet mangos for 25 Dirhams, until I realised that was actually four quid. Make sure you're hot on your currency conversion before you get there.

If, like me, you're interested in buildings, and architecture, a visit to Dibba - one of the oldest settlements on the East Coast - is well worth it. It is actually divided into three, one part owned by the emirate of Oman, another by Sharjah and the third Fujairah; and the architectural influences of all three ruling Sheikhs are in clear evidence, from the design of the buildings, down to the shape of lampposts, each enclave has its rulers taste uniquely engraved in its infrastructure and architecture.

I must admit that despite my initial indifference to the Middle East, I left in awe of Fujairah and all it had to offer. I spent a few hours in Dubai before leaving for home, and although impressive for shopping and architectural dynamism, I found it somewhat hectic as a relaxing holiday destination. But for an authentic Arabian experience - where you can unwind in splendour while still immersing yourself in the diverse cultures and geographies of UAE, head for Fujairah; the unique little emirate that doesn't need gold to glitter.

More information
The best time to visit the UAE is between October and May. I flew with Emirates airline, and Emirates Tours 0870 128 6000 are offering five nights B&B at the five star Le Meridien Al Aqah Beach Resort from £641 per person. Price includes return Economy Class flights with Emirates to Dubai from Heathrow, Gatwick, Birmingham, Manchester or Glasgow, private transfers and all taxes. For more information on Le Meridien Al Aqah Beach Resort go to www.alaqah.lemeridien.com