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Brussels - the home of the European Parliament, chocolate and Tin Tin - has been given a bad rap as a tourist destination in recent years. But away from the tourist traps and parliamentary buildings, I found a city perfect for girlie weekends and hen parties, with designer clothes at reasonable prices, fantastic seafood dining and a vibrantly quirky, if not at times slightly surreal, nightlife
When I told people I was off to Brussels, I got some pretty standard responses: 'boring city, cheap beer'. Don't get me wrong, I like my beer, but a whole weekend supping the stuff was not what I was looking for. Plus a little birdie had told me that Brussels was fast emerging as a fashion designers' Mecca, so I was determined to get more out of my visit than just an economical beer-fest. Here, a photo tour of Brussels with a few surprises
(photography by Clare Spurrell):
Shop till you drop.
Whether you are looking for a high street bargain (thanks to low rental costs, prices are around 30 per cent cheaper than in the UK), vintage threads or something a bit special - Brussels will have it. My mission was to find a dress for my friend's wedding this year, and my budget was 50 quid.
Most of the better known high street shops such as Zara and Claire's Accessories can be found in the Port de Namur in the Upper Town. But for a real taste of 'Bruxellois' style, head towards the old Exchange Building on the Boulevard Anspach, a good landmark pinpointing the start of the downtown Place Saint Géry district, where all the young new designers can be found.
The Rue Antoine Dansaert in the Place Saint Géry district is sprinkled with a variety of quirky looking shopfronts that ooze style. There are very few cash machines around here, so make sure that you cash up before you arrive. Here you can find local designers like Olivier Strelli, who uses a mix of diaphanous materials and woollen fabrics to create elegant collections. The Belgian designer was recently made famous by Mick Jagger, who wore an Olivier Strelli jacket on his last tour.
One of my absolute favourites on this street is Y-Dress, whose designer takes a tongue-in-cheek approach to her designs that are both practical, funky and unique. You will find shirts that can double as trousers, skirts sold with separate paint pots to let you get creative on them and layered fabrics that can be mixed and matched to create new looks to suit your mood. My favourites were the 'Emergency Wedding Dress' and the 'Instant Princess Dress' - both of which had ruffled underskirts to billow them out - and an 'over dress' whose colours can be mixed and matched.
Magpie's should pop into jewellers' Christa Reniers. Here, you can get your hands on one-off pieces inspired and built around the organic shape of natural stones. Her jewellery is either set in gold or silver; she uses different matte and shiny textures to create pieces that are timeless and unique. Prices range start at about 300 euros, but items can be resized and made to order. Visit www.christareniers.com for more information.
For window shopping, head to the Galeries Royales Saint Hubert District. This indoor passageway, lined with geometric boutique shops and cafes, screams Italian Renaissance style beneath a glass roof, and is the ideal place to pick up designer leather goods, jewellery or toys. Window shoppers can sit outside one of the cafes in the passageway and watch consumerism at its best.
The Sablon district is not just for lovers of art and antiques but also chocolate, as this is where you will find the boutique shop of world renowned chocolatier Pierre Marcolini. Forget Leonidas - Marcolini travels the world looking for the best cocoa beans, and his chocolate is so pure, it could almost be considered good for you - chocoholics stock up!
In this district you will also find some great flea markets which are open on the weekends and are great for picking up antique artefacts and home accessories.
For the big spenders looking for the likes of Armani, Vuitton and Dior, head to the Quatier Avenue Louise and the Boulevard de Waterloo - the Champs Elysees of Brussels. I De B Lifestore is impressively grandiose and sells a variety of very fine clothes, accessories and home goods, each handpicked from across the globe. If you just want to hang out with the fashionistas of the area without spending much cash, go down to I De B's basement cafe for a glass of champagne and a light snack.
Avenue Louise was a bit pricey for me, so I headed over to the designer overstock store Dod in the Chaussée de Louvain. This is a great place to pick up a designer bargain with a high street price tag - and here I found my dress! My beautiful 1920s inspired Vogue-esque dress cost me 30 quid - well below my budget - leaving me plenty to splurge on a pair of matching shoes...
Where to eat out
The nightlife of Brussels, like that of many other European cities, starts a little later than Brits may be accustomed to. Locals tend to dine between nine and ten in the evening, before heading out to a bar or club. I ate a fantastic evening meal at the relatively new lounge restaurant bars, Khnopff on the Rue Saint Bernard in the upper town. The Khnopff has a fantastic vibe, all dark purple seating and sensual uplighting in a contemporary setting. My fois gras starter was perfection, followed by a light fillet of beef with gratin dauphinois - delicious, and not too painful. The whole meal, including wine, came to around 50 euros per person.
Brussels, being only about an hour from the sea, is big on fish. Avoid the touristy areas around the Grand Place and Mannequin Pis, and head down to the Saint Catherine area for some really great seafood specials. Sunday brunch is also a popular past time. For this, make your way to le Pain Quotidien in the Sablon district, and take a seat at the table d'hote (guest table). Here locals rub shoulders whilst sipping delicious hot chocolates, eating organic breads with jams and syrups such as the delicious Lyege Syrup - made from locally grown apples and pears.
Party time
Obviously Brussels is pretty famous for its beers, but be warned as some have alcohol levels as high as ten per cent or more. Here is a guide to some delicious beers, that won't leave you passed out in bed by 10pm, and some you might want to think twice about.
Light and lady friendly
- La Newtonc
- La Belgian Pêche
- La Bière Brune de Table 'Piedboeuf Foncée' (This table beer is often served to children as it is so sweet and light)
Medium for moderation
- Leffe Brune (slightly sweeter and lighter than its blonde sister)
- La Bellevue Framboise (Raspberry beer - not as innocent as it sounds!)
- Blanche de Namur: (a refreshing white beer)
Hardcore beers - handle with care!
- La Barbar - Where honey means more than a nickname
- La Chouffe - the trolls are lovely, but a bit vicious:
- La Rochefort
The killer!
- Bush Beer - at 12% you will struggle to find a beer much stronger, but Bush is very flavoursome and a gorgeous amber colour.
My favourite drinking spot in Brussels is Goupil le Fol on Rue de la Violette 22 (near the Grand Place), which translates as The Smart Fox in ancient French; 'this is a place where a tramp could meet a King' say the owner Abel. Customers practically sit on top of one other, amid a dimly lit clutter of old gramophones, books by the likes of Flaubert and Jules Vernes, old bicycles, wall murals, pictures of monarchs and more - while swaying to the likes of Edith Piaf and Jaques Brel, sipping fruit cognacs, writing or playing cards. I didn't meet any kings, but I certainly felt like one after one glass of the home-made Almond Cognac.
If you like jazz, head to the Music Village on rue des Pierres 50, this 17th-century house features live music with all the charms of the jazz bars of New York. Le Cobeau on rue Saint Michel attracts an eccentric mix of young people, drinking their beers through a Chevalier (a weird shaped litre glass). The Belga on Place Flagey 18, has an outdoor terrace and a colourful atmosphere with funky music and a very Belgian vibe. And finally, the Mirano on Chaussee de Louvain is the place to go to spot some big names and party the night away.. A former cinema, they host a selection of creative evenings, with a strict entry policy and a trendy clientele. Check out their website before you go www.at7.be for early evening drinks or www.dirtydancing.be for 'The Dirty' night!
A break from the shops?
Brussels is a great city to see art nouveau and art deco sitting side by side. No better than the Museum of Instruments on Rue Montagne de la Cour 2. This late 19th-century art nouveau building is the home to more than 1,500 instruments, but I particularly enjoyed just wondering around admiring the architecture. You can take a historical journey through the history of music and instrumentation, and peruse artefacts from Belgium, Europe and beyond. For views of the city head up to the roof cafe; the food isn't great but it does offer the best views of across city.
A hidden gem in the city is the Theatre Royal de Toone, or Maison de Toone, found at the end of a little side street that peels off the Rue de Bouchier (heading towards the Grand Place). Here, you will find an ancient Marionette theatre situated in the attic of the small building, where you can watch performances such as Romeo and Juliet, The Passion of Christ and the Three Musketeers whilst sat on wooden benches with cushions in front of the small stage. Below is a bar with Spanish red brick walls, dark wood beams and great beer! When the marionettes are not performing, the bar is open to all.
Where to stay
I stayed at the Hotel Manos Premiere, which is a five-star hotel located near the Avenue Louise district in the upper town. This was once a residential property, and retains a homely feel with old paintings, crystal chandeliers and carved wood medallions. There are also private gardens with a pebble path and a manicured, tree lined lawn, creating a natural haven for wildlife and greenery. Don't forego the Hammam spa, which also offers wonderful and expert massages - perfect for rejuvenating body and soul after a full day's shopping in preparation for a night out on the tiles.
For room rates and availability, visit www.manoshotel.com
Smart tips:
- Most of the shops are closed on Sundays, so make sure you get all your shopping done on the Saturday if you are planning a weekend break. Sunday is best kept for a lazy Sunday brunch or a wander around the flea markets in the Sablon district
- Cash machines are not in abundance, so if you see one make sure you stock up. Better still, use plastic or get your euros before you come, as there are often long queues at cash points.
- Get hold of a 'Brussels Card' available from the tourist information offices. This allows free use of the transport system, plus gives admission to most of the bigger museums. The card also allows up to 25 per cent discount on many of the attractions, and some of the designers in the Dansaert district will offer a five per cent discount to card holders. Available from tourist centers, hotels and transport stations, the Brussels Card costs 30 Euros
- Unlike many European cities, Brussels is economical to visit in summertime. That's when all the European parliamentarians are on their summer break, so flights and the Eurostar tickets are cheaper, plus many hotels slash their prices.
For more information visit www.belgiumtheplaceto.be.
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