There's something typically English about the Cotswolds. Known for its gentle hills and pretty villages, visiting there is a bit like stepping back in time

I love the Cotswolds. There's something very old-fashioned about it, with its pretty honey-coloured villages and tea shops. In summer, the villages can be overflowing with tourists, but if you time your visit right, you'll enter a quiet world where village life predominates, with ducks to be fed and cream teas to be had!

When my sister Joanna and I visited Stow-on-the-Wold in March, the weather was not at its best. True, the rolling mists did add an atmospheric touch, making the views over the hills, or wolds, seem almost magical when the sun burst through. But the steady drizzle that fell as we wandered around the town, peering into antique shops and delicatessens selling local produce, reminded us that it was only just spring.

Stow-on-the-Wold is the highest of the Cotswolds' towns and there has been a settlement there since the Iron Age. It was an important town during the Middle Ages, when Cotswold wool enjoyed a heyday. Local sheep were famous for their heavy fleeces and the quality of their wool. Wool traders could command high prices, and many used their new fortunes to build sturdy houses and churches in the area. These 'wool churches' are famous throughout the Cotswolds.

As the drizzle persisted, we decided to check in to our hotel, wyckhillhouse, and get settled in before heading to the spa for a facial. wyckhillhouse is an 18th century mansion house set in a 100-acre private estate at the top of a hill just outside Stow-on-the-Wold. Originally the family home to a feudal lord, it has recently undergone a £3.5 million refurbishment, and now belongs to the nichehotels group.

Understated grandeur
Stepping through the front door, you are immediately transported back into a world of cavernous rooms and huge, dark furniture. The entrance hall boasts an enormous fireplace with several sofas and armchairs arranged invitingly in front of it. You can linger here drinking coffee and reading the papers, or just admire the giant proportions favoured by 18th century architects. The stately home feel continues with an imposing dark wooden staircase and balcony, but the atmosphere inside the hotel is chilled and relaxed.

The walls are painted in muted colours and decorated with black and white photos of the Cotswolds, and while much of the furniture is huge, it's all very comfy and inviting. The hotel is not stuffy or formal and many of the guests were curled up on sofas or chatting with the friendly staff.

Our room was in the renovated part of the hotel and was on the lower ground floor. Because the building is on the side of a hill, this didn't mean we were in the basement, and we still had our own patio area outside the French doors. The room was huge, with high ceilings and a contemporary feel (more muted colours on the walls added to this feeling). wyckhillhouse prides itself on the quality and comfort of its beds, and I don't know if that was down to the handmade hypnos pocket sprung bed or the 100 per cent Egyptian percale cotton bed linen, but I had one of the best night's sleep I'd had in ages.

Our en suite bathroom had a power shower and deep bath and was stocked with Gilchrist & Soames toiletries. We also had cosy, fluffy robes to mooch about in, and we donned these before heading off to the spa.

Enjoying a facial
The spa is also a new addition to the hotel and has six treatment rooms, two nail bars and a marble steam and sauna. Unfortunately there isn't a pool or water feature of any kind, so it's not the type of spa you linger in. However, the treatment rooms were warm and clean and the therapists who greeted us seemed knowledgeable and friendly.

Winter always takes its toll on my skin, leaving it blotchy and grey, so we'd booked Elemis facials. After a quick consultation to determine our skin types, Joanna and I were invited into a candlelit, dual treatment room and wrapped in cosy towels. The facial itself was lovely, starting with a quick foot massage, before hot compresses were pressed on to our faces. After being cleansed, toned and moisturised, our arms, backs and necks were also gently massaged, allowing us to gently drift off into a semi-comatose state. The hour passed really quickly, and we both left with a fresh glow on our cheeks, and much better looking skin.

Wining and dining
We returned to our rooms and had a quick doze - just to let all the oils soak in, you understand - before heading to the bar for a pre-dinner vodka. Once again, I was taken by the mix of contemporary, and very comfy, furniture and the grand scale of the rooms. We were dining in the hotel's award-winning restaurant and sampled tasty aperitifs as we perused the menu. It was disappointing to note that of the five main course choices, there was no vegetarian option, although a stilton and spinach tartlet was available on request. I had the local lamb served with saute potatoes, which was absolutely delicious.

wyckhillhouse is a lovely place to stay if you want to enjoy chilled elegance in a relaxed atmosphere. We saw many young couples there, and they all seemed to be enjoying their stay. Celebrity guests have included Cameron Diaz and Jude Law, although neither were there while we were!

It's a great location for exploring the surrounding Cotswolds, or if you fancy playing to the 'Country Squire' image, the hotel can arrange clay pigeon shoots or archery contests. But if you're expecting a spa experience, I think you'd be disappointed that there is no pool.

Room rates start at £180.25 for a standard double including VAT and a full English breakfast.

Nichehotels are dog friendly, so if you want to take your pooch with you, it'll be well looked after with bed, biscuits and bowl provided.

For more information about wyckhillhouse hotel, go to www.wyckhillhouse.com

wyckhillhouse hotel
Stow-on-the-Wold
Gloucester
GL54 1HY
Tel: 01451 831 936

What to do in the Cotswolds

Take the kids to the Cotswold Wildlife Park, where you can feed the penguins and watch birds of prey demonstrations. For more information visit www.cotswoldwildlifepark.co.uk

Visit Snowshill Manor, a National Trust property that was once the home of Charles Paget Wade. Explore the house and gardens and discover many of the treasures collected by the architect and craftsman. For more information visit www.nationaltrust.org.uk

Batsford Arboretum is known as one of the jewels of the Cotswolds and is home to one of the largest private collections of trees and shrubs in the country. Visit in spring and enjoy the magnolia and flowering cherries. Admission is £6 for adults and £2 for children. For more information visit www.batsarb.co.uk

History buffs will enjoy a day at Blenheim Palace, home of the duke of Marlborough and the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill. You can explore the palace, park and gardens of this World Heritage site. There are regular events including jousting competitions, concerts and craft fairs. For more information visit www.blenheimpalace.com