Newcastle is changing. It's got lively night life, good shopping and great places to eat. And if you're looking for somewhere to stay, check out the greystreethotel, a cosy boutique hotel, that's right in the centre

If you arrive at Newcastle by train, whatever you do, don't take a taxi to the greystreethotel! You'll risk the wrath of the taxi driver, as I discovered to my cost. Admittedly, it is only a five-minute walk from the station to the hotel, but I was spectacularly scolded for my ignorance before being grumpily deposited outside the door. So much for the great Geordie welcome!

The hotel

Grey Street is renowned for its Georgian architecture, and the hotel is a Grade II listed building. Converted from an old bank, the hotel is a mixture of contemporary minimalist style and period charm. It's all biscuity colours and tiled stairwells. Most of the rooms are unusual shapes and the hotel has a kind of higgeldy-piggeldy feel, which adds to the cosy effect.

Belonging to the Niche Hotel Group, greystreethotel justly prides itself on its comfy beds; they're hand-made apparently, with pocket-sprung mattresses. They also invest in good quality bed linen, so you shouldn't have problems drifting off. The only grumble I had was that I couldn't open the window in the room, so I found it a little bit stuffy. But the room was well-stocked with teas and coffee (cafetiere coffee at that) and had a flat-screen TV and DVD player.

Our room was comfortable, but a little on the small side for a double. Decorated in muted colours with chocolate hues, it felt stylish, but a little scruffy. The skirting boards were scuffed and the cream-coloured carpet needed cleaning. The photos on the walls show local scenes, which adds to the ambience.

Location

Grey Street is in the heart of Newcastle's shopping district. If you walk up the road, you'll come to the Grey Street Monument. Built to commemorate the Reform Act of 1832, it features Earl Grey when he was prime minister. At the bottom, you'll find Eldon Square, a large shopping centre with branches of both Fenwick and John Lewis, while the Eldon Garden centre offers designer brands.

If you're more of a High Street shopper, you won't be disappointed, as there are branches of TK Maxx, Primark, H&M and New Look. Monument Mall, with its beautiful glass-domed roof, is also worth a visit while snapping up bargains.

You're also only a short walk away from the quayside, where you'll find the BALTIC Centre for Contemporary Art. This former flour mill was converted with galleries, studios and a cinema/lecture area. There's also a rooftop restaurant if you fancy braving the elements. The Quayside is popular for night life with many bars and restaurants if you're looking for somewhere to sample the local brew - Newcastle Brown Ale!

Eating and drinking

The greystreethotel has teamed up with the Living Room chain for their catering. The restaurant itself was cosy in the evening, but a little too dark and poorly-lit in the morning. The menu was good though, with plenty to choose from. I enjoyed the sea bass with ratatouille and I can recommend the full English for breakfast! The hotel has a snug cellar bar where you can relax after your dinner and enjoy a nightcap.

More things to do around Newcastle

Visit the QEII Metro Bridge between Newcastle and Gateshead
Each night it is lit up by an ever-changing colour and light installation called Nocturne. It's the work of artist Nayan Kulkarni, and promises a different lightscape each night.

Take a tour
You'll find organised walking tours or you can hop on and off the City Sightseeing Tour bus, or take a River Escapes boat trip and see the city from a different angle.

Discover how amazing you are at the Centre for Life
This exciting science centre tests your brainpower and explores what makes each of us different.

Head to New Metroland - Europe's largest indoor fairground
Here you'll also find an 11-screen cinema, ten-pin bowling and a laser shoot 'em up game.

Stride out from Castle Keep
The original starting point for exploring Hadrian's Wall.

Visit the Laing Art Gallery
You'll be inspired by the watercolours, sculpture, silver, glass and pottery on display here, and you can also pick up designer jewellery in the great gallery shop.

Need to know

Greystreethotel
2 -12 Grey Street
Newcastle NE1 6EE
Tel: 0191 230 6777
Web: www.nichehotels.com

Prices start at £139 per room, per night but doesn't include breakfast. Check the web for details of special offers.

Find out what's going on when you visit, at www.newcastlegateshead.com