Exploring Music City

NashvilleWhen you think of Nashville, you think of Country music with singers and fans dressed in cowboy boots and rhinestones. But while there's definitely music everywhere, there's also much more to see and do

Everywhere you go in Nashville, you'll see reminders of the city's first love. Bars along Broadway boast paraphernalia from the stars, and the Country Music Hall of Fame is shaped like a bass clef, although this is only visible from the air.

At ground level the sweeping arc of the front is reminiscent of a Cadillac sedan (the car favoured by many singers). Even the long thin windows look like piano keys.

Things to do

Everyone visiting Nashville should go to the Country Music Hall of Fame. The definition of Country is a blend of folk, Celtic, blues, gospel and old style music, which covers just about everything, and you'll hear its influences in many songs today.

Follow the 'Sing Me Back Home: A Journey Through Country Music' exhibition from the top of the building and you can immerse yourself in the history of music. There's plenty to see, and listening posts give you the chance to hear some old favourites, while checking out the old instruments and costumes worn by the great and good.

Highlights include Elvis' 1960s 'Solid Gold' Cadillac limousine which stands in pride of place beside his gold-leaf 1928 Kimball grand piano, a gift from Priscilla on their first wedding anniversary (and you thought rappers invented bling), Patsy Cline's cowgirl outfit and Ray Charles' silk jacket, to name but a few.

Also take the Studio B tour, starting from the Museum. Just a short bus ride away, on Music Row, you can stand in the very studio where Dolly Parton begged Jolene not to steal her man and Elvis asked his ex 'Are you lonesome tonight?'

Between 1957 and 1977, RCA operated the studio and many great performers came to record their songs, including Roy Orbison, the Everly Brothers, Willie Nelson and Chet Atkins.

The oldest surviving recording studio in Nashville, it is still changing. Today, it is known as the cradle of the 'Nashville Sound', the more relaxed, yet polished, Country style that's popular now.

NashvilleAnother must-see place is the Musicians Hall of Fame and Museum which honours the many session musicians who were ultimately responsible for the distinctive sounds of many of the great stars. Although you may not recognise all of the names, you'll know many of the stars they recorded with, including Elvis, Frank Sinatra, The Beach Boys and The Byrds.

If you've had enough of music, explore the Parthenon in Centennial Park. Originally built as part of the Centennial Exposition in 1897, but so well-loved by Nashvillians that it's remained, this is a full-size replica of the Parthenon in Athens.

There's even a 42-foot high, gold-covered statue of the goddess Athena that dominates the upper hall, and copies of the Elgin Marbles. The building is also an art museum, showcasing mainly American artists.

About six miles west of Nashville, is another great place to explore. Belle Meade Plantation was famous for its race horses which developed strong legs as a result of eating the native bluegrass. Built in 1853, the farm covered 5,400 acres and was one of the largest private estates in Nashville.

Now open as a museum, you can wander around the rooms which are decorated and furnished with historic pieces and gain an understanding of the time when slaves worked the estate, and find out more about how they lived.

Eating and drinking

Food plays a big part in Southern culture and you'll have no excuse if you leave hungry! If you're at the Belle Meade, try Martha's for some delicious Southern-style food. For an informal lunchtime feast, Jack's BBQ on Broadway is an institution. Join the queue of regulars and try the pulled pork; a large serving of tasty bits of shredded roast pork, served with salads and bread.

Merchants, across the road, has two dining rooms. The grill downstairs is a casual restaurant serving crab cakes and sandwiches, while upstairs is a more formal (white table-clothed) restaurant serving traditional favourites and hearty dishes.

Cabana, on Belcourt Avenue, is a younger, trendier affair. This bar and restaurant serves delicious and beautifully presented food, such as walnut-encrusted, pan-seared scallops and a wicked flourless chocolate torte alongside traditional fried chicken and other Southern staples.

The Acorn restaurant prides itself on the warmth of its hospitality, and it's a friendly place to eat. They serve updated classics including butter-soft filet mignon and fusion alternatives such as Thai blackened salmon with a coconut hoisin sauce. They also make deliciously decadent puddings. I recommend the pecan tartlette with toffee sauce (well-worth breaking a diet for)!

Nightlife

NashvilleWhile in Nashville, you must go to the Grand Ole Opry and listen to the broadcast of the famous radio show. This is a great place to have a taster of Country music as you'll hear a mix of country legends and contemporary chart-toppers, interspersed with announcements and adverts from the sponsors in a traditional, old-time radio show format.

If you visit in the winter months, the show may be broadcast from the Ryman Auditorium, from where the Grand Ole Opry was originally broadcast. This beautiful old tabernacle has oak pews which are reported to help the acoustics of the place.

It was lovingly restored in 1994, by which time the Grand Ole Opry had moved to the Gaylord Opryland Resort and Convention Center nearby. You can listen to the performances live over the internet on www.gactv.com

Another place for live music is the Bluebird Cafe where you'll hear songwriters singing original material, often accompanying themselves on guitar. The performers sit together and do a 'songwriters in the round', taking turns to tell an anecdote and sing a song.

There's quite a reverential atmosphere, so expect to be shushed in you chat during the performances. The cafe is in a strip of car-showroom type shops and looks unassuming, but it's a good idea to book a table here as it fills up with locals and tourists alike.

Don't be put off by this as the musicians are good. Garth Brooks and Faith Hill both started here! The early evening shows are free, but there's a charge for the second show and you're expected to spend at least $7 on food or drink.

You should also make time to go to the honky-tonk bars on Broadway. These spit-and-sawdust type bars play live music and are usually quite raucous in a friendly way. Tootsies Orchid Lounge and Legends are famous and worth a look.

Need to know
From March 2008, foreign visitors to the US will be required to give all ten fingerprints on arrival, which will then be stored on a biometrics database. Since 2004, the Homeland Security Department has been collecting index fingerprints from foreign visitors aged from 14 to 79 and now has 90 million sets of prints on record. It is hoped collecting additional fingerprints will improve security and make it harder for people to travel on forged passports.

Find out more about travelling to the United States at www.discoveramerica.com