The guide to goose

Goose is, in fact, the traditional Christmas bird, and although more expensive than turkey, the meat is sumptuous, rich and gamey, making a wonderful treat for a big celebration

Preparing

A good rule of thumb is that a 10lb bird (oven-ready weight, including giblets) will feed 8 people. Buy fresh if possible, or if you buy a frozen goose, allow 4-5 days to defrost To reduce the amount of fat given off by the goose, pull off any pads of fat around the entrance to the cavity. (If you're using the goose fat to cook roast potatoes in, melt these fat pads in a pan to which you'll add the other fat that comes off the goose while cooking) Prod the goose all over with the tines of a fork to puncture the skin. Then pour over it a kettle of boiling water. This helps to release the fat For really crispy skin, you should dry the goose as best you can. The easiest way is to thread a string through the cavity and tie it like a parcel and make a loop of the ends Slot a coat hanger hook through the loop and hang the goose in a cool airy place, like a cellar or outside garage, or at a window you can open without making the rest of the house too chilly. Put a dish underneath to catch the drippings Leave the goose overnight. Alternatively, place the goose in front of a cool fan, turning it round every now and then, or leave the goose, uncovered, in the fridge overnight. If you have a morning to spare, you could lay the goose on a baking rack and go at it with a cold hairdryer while reading a book Whichever way you choose, you know it is dry enough when the skin feels dry and papery to the touch.