The white stuff: meringues to impress

Go for the old-fashioned glamour of meringues. They’re a perfect way to impress your guests with very little effort, says Julia Watson

Whether masquerading as soft clouds or crisp turbans, meringues were the epitome of pudding success with the post-war generation of dinner party hostesses. Perhaps recipes that called for the use of only half an ingredient (just how much mayonnaise or custard were you likely to make with the yolks?) were in rebellious reaction to years of rationing. Like soufflés, meringues seem so impossible to achieve. Yet, like soufflés, they’re so easy once you have the knack.

For meringue success, you must:

Make sure the bowl and whisk are scrupulously dry and grease-free.

Egg whites whip best at room temperature, but it’s easier to separate eggs in advance when they are cold. Drop the white from each egg into separate glasses before adding to the main bowl in case any yolk falls into the white, in which case you mustn’t use it. You can collect the yolks together in another bowl.

Add sugar slowly and beat meringue until shiny and stiff, but not dry. Underbeaten whites will weep. Overbeaten whites won’t spread evenly and will produce beads of surface sugar when baked.

Meringues

6 egg whites

1/8 tsp cream of tartar

450g sugar

1 tsp vanilla extract

1 tbsp white vinegar

Preheat the oven to 140C/275F/gas mark 1. Line a baking tray with greaseproof paper.
Beat the egg whites in a scrupulously clean bowl until foamy. Add the cream of tartar and beat again till the whites begin to form soft peaks.
Gradually beat in the sugar 1 spoon at a time, whisking as you go. Then add the vanilla and vinegar and beat until the whites are very stiff and shiny, about 10 minutes. Now blob rounded tablespoons of the mixture onto the lined baking tray and bake for 1 hour.
Turn the oven off and leave the meringues in the oven overnight to dry out, or take them out to cool on a wire rack for a soft interior. Eat as they are, or stick two together with a thick slick of whipped cream.

Pavlova

Serves 8

6 egg whites

350g caster sugar

3 tsp cornstarch

300ml whipping cream

10 passionfruit

Preheat oven to 180C/350F.
Follow meringue recipe, beating in the cornstarch once the mixture is stiff and shiny.
Butter and lightly flour a loose-bottomed 25cm/10in cake tin. Spread the meringue inside, and up the sides to form a surround. Bake till firm and lightly browned, for 1 to 1 ¼ hours. Cool slightly, then unmould.
Whip the cream till floppy, and just before serving, spread it unevenly over the meringue. Cover with the pulp, seeds and juice of the halved and scraped out passion fruit.

Hazelnut Meringue Torte

Serves 6–8

230g hazelnuts, toasted and with the skins rubbed off

345g caster sugar

8 large egg whites

½ tsp salt

75g flour

250g dried apricots, or shavings of grated dark chocolate

300ml whipping cream

Preheat oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4.
Grind nuts and sugar together in a food processor till fine.
Whisk egg whites and salt until stiff. Carefully fold in nut and sugar mixture. Gently sift over and incorporate the flour. Pour into a greased, floured 23cm/9in loose-bottomed cake tin, its base lined with greaseproof paper, and bake for 1 hour. Leave to cool a little, then remove to a wire rack to cool completely.
If you’re using the dried apricots, stew them until soft in a little liquid, then whiz to a purée.
Whip the cream until thick and spread over the meringue. Top with the apricot purée, or the shavings of grated dark chocolate.

Eton Mess

Serves 6

450g fresh strawberries, hulled

sugar

570ml double cream

meringues

Purée half the strawberries in a blender with sugar to taste.
Roughly slice the remaining strawberries.
Whip the cream until softly stiff. Break the meringues into mouth-sized pieces and place in a serving bowl.
Just before serving, add the strawberries to the meringues and fold in the purée, then the cream.