Take a break in an Oasis of calm

In the centre of the holiday village is its star attraction - World of Water, and that was where we were going to spend the afternoon. This is a breathtaking series of interconnecting pools and water rides under a high glass canopy where the light and warmth ensure a summery atmosphere whatever the weather outside. There is one pool dedicated to serious swimmers but most people are there for the fun - water curtains, waves, spa pools, rapids inside and out, and the Falling Rapids ride. There is a café next to the children's pools so you don't need to leave all day if your children get hooked - and it's almost inevitable that they will.

We finally tore ourselves away in time for dinner - you can stay until 9pm - but we had a pressing engagement at the Hard Rock Café. Our food was excellent - fajitas for me, double hot dog for Christian, all in mammoth servings - but what makes the Hard Rock special is, of course, the atmosphere. The walls are lined with costumes worn by Madonna and Prince and the music videos are non-stop rock'n'roll from every era. "Look," he said. "It's Elvis the king." How could he know that, I wondered. "Wow, it was made in 1960. Not even Grandma was alive then."

The next morning while Christian went to the Funky Foxes children's club - games, art, cooking and a nature walk - I decided to go for some serious pampering. The new spa at Oasis has steam rooms, saunas, a hydrotherapy suite, aromatherapy, massage and the first rasul in the UK - an ancient Arab treatment combining organic mud with a herbal steam bath. I had a dry flotation therapy, in which wrapped in restorative mud and blankets, I floated on a deliciously relaxing warm water bed. This was followed by a luxury facial, using the excellent E'Spa range of beauty products. Fully restored, I collected Christian for the next round of activities. We tried ice skating, mini-golf, Le Mans Scalextric, American pool and took in a family show. With more time, we could have tried archery, scuba diving, clay pigeon shooting, tennis, volleyball, riding, quadbiking, fishing, rock climbing or a balloon ride - the possibilities really are endless.

Younger children, too, have plenty of activities, play areas and clubs and the youngest (from three months) can be cared for in the kindergarten while you practise your backhand. From eight years upwards, children can go to the World of Water on their own and, riding their bikes through the woods, most of them will probably be experiencing an unparalleled sense of freedom.

Oasis bookings: 08705 086 000. Depending on the season, prices start at £199 for a family of four having a four-night midweek break.

Anna and Christian travelled from London to Penrith on Virgin Trains. For information and bookings, call 0845 7222 333 (open 8am to 10pm) or visit www.virgin.com.