The Gower Peninsula (or five go mad in Wales)

Much of the time, though, we just spent walking. The scenery in the Gower is spectacular. There are long sandy beaches and little coves surrounded by extraordinary rock formations - where you are likely to find rock climbers. Our favourite walk was from the village of Parkmill, towards the south of the peninsula, down to Three Cliffs Bay. We went through a wood, filled with the heady scent of wild garlic, out onto sandy dunes, with a ruined castle on a hill and down towards yet another beautiful beach. Most extraordinary of all, the dunes are filled with herds of wild ponies and, as we were there in the spring, they had several foals with them. The ponies are unique to the Gower and you can find them almost anywhere - in villages, wandering over the common land on the backbone of the peninsula or out on the flat marshlands of the cockle beds along the north coast of the Gower.

Going back to the Mill every evening after a day in the fresh air was just like coming home, but with one great bonus. Stembridge has its own chef who cooks fabulous meals for you in the evening, together with breakfasts (their own organic sausages, duck eggs) and picnic lunches if you need them. The food is inspired regional cuisine using home-grown vegetables, meat and poultry from Stembridge's organically managed smallholding and local specialities, including sea-bass, sewin, lobster, samphire, salt marsh lamb (particularly tender) and cockles.

The chef is Graham Hurren who trained and worked with Raymond Blanc at the famous Le Manoir Auz Quat' Saisons and his meals are an occasion. You begin with aperitifs and canapes, followed by four courses of delicious and beautifully presented dishes, with wine and after dinner drinks included in the cost. For me, Graham's meals were the highlight of the trip and the three boys loved them just as much and all volunteered to help produce two fabulous puddings. Christian even got up early to help him prepare breakfast.

In fact, Graham teaches cookery courses at the Mill, either one day or week long and is happy to teach children, too. Other courses include painting, mushrooming, gardening, music, creative writing, wildlife photography and woolcraft and you can book one as part of your holiday. On the other hand, if you are simply looking for tranquility and real comfort for a holiday or a special family occasion, Stembridge is ideal. As for me, I'll never think of South Wales in quite the same way again.

OTHER PLACES TO VISIT

Gower Heritage Centre
Parkmill
12th century waterpowered cornmill, craft workshop with resident artist and potter, animal farm and farm museum.

National Botanic Garden of Wales, Middleton Hall, Llanarthne, Carmarthenshire
Brand new national botanic garden with centrepiece Great Glasshouse containing threatened plant species from Mediterranean set around rock faces, ravines, streams and waterfalls. Interactive exhibitions and demonstrations on all aspects of plant life.

Museum of Welsh Life, St Fagans
4 miles west of Cardiff
Open air museum with 30 authentic buildings, recreating Welsh life from a medieval farmhouse to a Victorian chapel to a 1920s shop. There is also a house for the future using the newest, most environmentally friendly techniques and materials.

ADDRESSES

Stembridge Mill
Stembridge
Gower
Swansea SA3 1BT
01792 391640
stembridge.mill@virgin.net
B&B #65 per person; full board (including wine, aperitifs, after-dinner drinks) #115 per person. Babysitting and childcare included, up to two children in family rooms. Discounts for groups staying three or more days.

Welsh Surfing Federation Surf School
Llangennith
Gower
01792 386426

Wildfowl and Wetlands Centre
Llanelli Centre
Penclacwydd
Llwynhendy
Llanelli
SA14 9SH
01554 741087
There are special events all year round and the Centre will also cater for children's parties and other special occasions.