Get your kids into culture in Florence

In Florence, the passeggiata, or evening stroll is a must. Your children may think this is a rather boring way to spend an hour or two - until they get there. Not only are there shop windows full of gorgeous jewels or surreal wooden bicycles, the streets are full of entertainers. Musicians come in all forms from gypsy violinists to brass bands. Artists sell their views of Florence and paint portraits or draw caricatures. Conjurors play tricks and, our favourites, 'living statues' pose. When he first saw one of the living statues, Christian didn't know if it was real or not - and I wasn't too certain myself. They stand on plinths along the Via Dei Calzaiuloi and in the courtyard of the Uffizi, Egyptian mummies or Roman emperors, apparently made of bronze or marble, and moving not even an eyelid. It is only when you throw a few coins in their hats that they bow deeply from the waist or blow a kiss in thanks.

As with most city holidays, we had only a three night stay and so I had to make some hard decisions on which other 'serious' sights to see. In the end, I opted for the Palazzo Vecchio - the 'old palace' built around 1300, which today operates as both a museum with plenty of computer-screen information and as government offices - and the Accademia - because we couldn't leave Florence without seeing Michelangelo's David and the Slaves.

These were our main sights for our two remaining mornings, though we fitted in quick looks at some of the other churches and museums. This did mean missing the Uffizi, one of world's greatest collections of Renaissance paintings, but I comforted myself with the fact that I'd been there before and the queues alone would prove too much for my patience, let alone Christian's. We did, however, seek out different sights - looking into shop windows on the Ponte Vecchio and at the Palazzo Pitti's Boboli Gardens. Although the main gardens are formal and stylised in design, there are also mysterious wooded walks, scented rose gardens, great views and lots of space to let off steam. It is also fun just to wander in Florence, finding secret alleyways and piazzas, little curio shops and secret gardens. And it is, of course, one of the few places where you can become a world authority on ice cream in just three days.

TRAVELLERS' TIPS

• Don't go during the summer holidays when the city is too hot and overcrowded.
• Don't feel guilty if you don't see everything - relaxing and enjoying the atmosphere is just as important.
• Do go to museums and galleries first when queues are shorter and everyone feels fresher.
• Do take the kids out in the evenings to watch the crowds, the street entertainers and musicians.
• Do book for dinner if you want to try somewhere more special than a pizza place.
• Do have a day out in the country if you have time - Fiesole and Settignano are short bus rides away.
• Don't take all your cash, passports or credit cards out with you. As so in many cities, street crime can be a problem.