Elephant camp at Anantara Golden Triangle Resort

Traditional furnishings
The hotel's decor and furniture is based on traditional Thai style. All the wood used throughout the resort is reconditioned teak and they are proud to tell you that no new teak was cut for the project. An enormous Buddhist screen, called a 'sat tu pan' dominates the entrance. At night, this is decorated with candles, giving all the lobby areas an enchanted feel.

As a place to relax and unwind, the Golden Triangle Resort has it all. There's an infinity pool with views over the Mekong valley, a gym, clearly marked nature trails, and mountain bikes for hire. And there's the spa if you want a bit of pampering. Be warned though, some of the treatments can be quite intense! I tried a Thai massage, which left me with more aches than the elephants, but really got into knotted muscles.

There was a moment when I wondered exactly what horrible crime I must have committed against my tiny masseuse to make her hate me so much, but the resounding crack as she straightened my back restored my confidence that it wasn't personal.

Eating and drinking
As you'd expect, the food was wonderful. The main restaurant, Sala Mae Nam, served traditional Thai and northern Thai specialities, and was absolutely delicious. Another must is the Dinner by Design. Here you can select a location around the resort and chefs will set up a temporary kitchen and you can enjoy wonderful food in a truly magical setting.

We ate in a small summer house beside the resort's paddy fields, and were joined for pre-dinner drinks by the elephants and their mahouts. There is something surreal about being in the middle of a paddy field, feeding elephants bananas as chefs rustle up a gourmet feast for your enjoyment. We finished the evening off by releasing kum ploi, enormous hot air balloons that have a small burner inside. Once lit, the gases collect in the balloon and then lift off the ground, rising into the night sky like weird jellyfish. It was definitely a meal to remember!

Beach resort, Koh Samui
If you can't imagine going to Thailand and not enjoying a tropical island paradise, head to Koh Samui. Much busier and with a totally different pace of life, Anantara's resort at Bophut Bay offers a haven away from the crowds of backpackers and budget travellers.

Set in 11 acres of beachfront land, near the fisherman's village at Bophut, the resort shares a feeling of understated luxury with its northern neighbour. This resort has 106 rooms and suites, all equipped with enormous terrazzo baths with sliding doors into the room. Unfortunately, you don't have the same luxury of space here, and the resort feels busier. The rooms are built in a horseshoe shape around the pool and main restaurant. My ground floor room had a balcony onto the garden area and restaurant, but was too close to the main walkways to offer any privacy.

After the very secluded Golden Triangle resort in the north, this felt intrusive and somewhat crowded, despite the beautifully manicured grounds. The spa here, though, is superb. Designed as a Zen-like sanctuary, the spa is in an enclosed garden. A paved walkway leads you to the therapy rooms, each of which has a private walled garden area in which to relax after your treatment. I had an aromatherapy massage, which left me floating in a cloud of delicious Thai spices.

Things to do
If you tire of the long beaches and warm waters of the Gulf of Thailand, you can always hop in a cab and indulge in some retail therapy at Chaweng Beach, where you can pick up clothes and cds at a fraction of Western prices. Alternatively, you can explore the islands on a boat tour. Don't be fooled, however, into thinking this will be a peaceful day out. Every other tourist in town will make that trip at some point and it can seem like rush hour each time you pause to snorkel or explore a remote island.

Kuoni Travel (01306 747008 - www.kuoni.co.uk) offers 7 nights in Thailand, staying 4 nights at the Anantara Resort & Spa, Golden Triangle on room-only basis in a deluxe room and 3 nights at Anantara Resort Koh Samui on room-only basis in a deluxe garden view room, including flights with Thai Airways from Heathrow with transfers and domestic flights in resort. Prices for June 2008 from £1221 per person based on two sharing.