Rocky Mountain Highs

Me-time in Banff

Banff itself is a busy, commercial town. There's shops of every persuasion here, so you'll be able to have your dose of retail therapy should you need that fix. Originally built as a spa town - it has natural hot springs - it now plays host to some 4.5 million visitors each year. And there are still plenty of spas to choose from, should you feel the need for a spot of pampering.

With its Gothic architecture, the Banff Springs Hotel is a much-loved landmark of the town. Originally built to encourage tourists to the area to help pay for the Canadian Pacific Railway, the architect's drawings were misunderstood, and the hotel was built back-to-front. This oversight gave the most spectacular views to the kitchens while guestrooms looked out over forests.

The Willow Stream Spa at the hotel is gorgeous. There's a large mineral pool in which to take the waters, three cascading waterfall pools of varying temperature, an outdoor salt water hot tub, as well as steam rooms and saunas and a Jacuzzi. Try a treatment if you can. I had the Rockies Rehydration - a full-body wrap with algae and aloe vera - totally delicious.

The Red Earth Spa at the Banff Caribou Lodge is another good choice. Not quite as luxurious as the Willow Stream, it's more central to the town and offers a full range of spa treatments, as well as use of the pools and steam rooms.

In Calgary, the understated but beautifully relaxing RnR Wellness Spa is great for massages and holistic treatments. They also have satellite operations in many of the hotels.

Wilderness experiences

To make the most of your time in the mountains, stay at a wilderness lodge. We stayed at Mount Engadine Lodge, where it's easy to relax and take in the beauty around you. Sleeping just 19 guests, this lodge is friendly and informal, with great food and constant supplies of good coffee and tea.

The dining room and deck overlook a huge meadow and it's not uncommon to see moose snuffling for minerals in the muddy puddles as you sip your morning brew. Alternatively, check out the Alpine Club of Canada, which provides huts and hostel accommodation for members (membership fees are not expensive). In Banff, we stayed at the Fox Hotel & Suites, which is a fairly central, modern hotel.

Food and drink

There's certainly no shortage of great places to eat and drink in the Rockies. The food at Mount Engadine Lodge was served 'family-style' with huge platters from which to help yourself. Each meal is a communal experience and every dish was tasty and fresh.

In Banff, there are plenty of options for eating out. Fuze restaurant, as its name suggests, offers fusion food, mixing continents and flavours with panache. The Sleeping Buffalo Lodge showcases Rocky Mountain cuisine and makes great use of local resources with elk and moose on the menu, while the Bison Mountain Bistro and General Store offers a simpler menu and great brunch, as well as tasty treats to take away.

Need to know

Travel Alberta
For more information and assistance on planning a holiday to Alberta see www.TravelAlberta.com

British Airways
BA Holidays offers a 7 night fly-drive to Calgary from £803 per person departing September 2008. Includes return BA flights from Heathrow from £716.50 per person and car hire (Alamo inclusive) from £86.50 per person for the duration. Subject to availability, based on two sharing and includes all UK taxes. To book visit www.ba.com or call BA Holidays on 0844 4930758 (add £15pp surcharge for telephone bookings)

Mount Engadine Lodge
www.mountengadine.com
Tel: 001 403-678-4080
Rates start at $380 CDN per night for double occupancy including room, breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner - as well as endless coffee and tea!

The Fox Hotel & Suites
www.bestofbanff.com
Rates start at $264 CDN per night for double occupancy in a superior hotel room, on room only basis.

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