24 hours in a safari lodge

12.30pm-1.30pm - Lunch
Meals are at set times due to the obvious logistical constraints of preparing feasts over a fire in the bush and of keeping prepared food fresh. Lunch usually comprises a buffet of salads, often with hot options, bread baked in the coals and a choice of puddings.

Meals are the main chance to mix with other guests; potluck dictates how agreeable they are. Some camps arrange a special honeymooners' lunch as a one-off treat, so newly-weds can eat in a private (but safe) spot surrounded only by wilderness.

1.30pm-3.30pm - Siesta time
When the heat haze rises, cicadas screech and light becomes blinding, all sane living things head for cover. It's siesta time. If it's really hot and you don't have a fan, try lying beneath a damp sarong to keep cool. Some lodges will have a swimming pool or individual plunge pools to help you cool off. Alternatively, savour the peace and carry on sketching, reading or playing cards. Most tents and chalets have private balconies where you can relax in peace.

3.30pm-4pm - Afternoon tea
Mid-afternoon, staff will wake you by knocking discreetly. If you have a bucket shower, they may bring warm water now so you are fresh for afternoon tea.

You're likely to be offered cake or biscuits (as if you haven't eaten much today), however if you have had a large brunch in late morning - instead of breakfast and lunch - a spread of savouries may be served.

4pm-7.30pm - Game viewing
Evening game drive or walk - a chance to search for a particular species you haven't yet seen, or perhaps follow the progress of a pride or herd spotted earlier.

Guides usually find a scenic viewing spot for sundowners. Dusk is short and darkness comes quickly in Africa, so by the time you're driving back to camp, you'll probably be using a spotlight to pick out animals' luminous eyes and shadowy forms.

You're likely to return to the lodge about one and a half hours after dark.

7.30pm-10pm Dinner time
There'll be about 15-30 minutes for getting changed and having aperitifs round the campfire. Dinner is usually candle-lit and can be al fresco or within an open-sided dining area. Three courses, with wines, is the norm, possibly including some game meat like impala or ostrich. There may be a choice of two dishes and most lodges are very good at providing a wide ranging menu during your stay.

The food in most camps is excellent, but tell the camp manager if you have any specific dietary requirements or dislikes.

Dress codes vary between camps; smart-casual is usually appropriate.

10pm-late - Winding down
The most interesting conversations take place over digestifs around the fire. Revelry can continue into the night if people are feeling boisterous (staff will stay up as late as you want), but often it feels natural to sleep early, following the rhythms of the bush. In unlit camps, guests may be given torches or a lantern for finding their way to their tents, or they may be escorted. By special request, or if there has been an interesting sighting in the area, there may be a night drive. An informed guide may give you a lesson in Africa's incredible stars. Fall asleep to the chorus of the bush. Animals won't pass through camp during daytime but may well do so in darkness - which spoor (footprints) will appear overnight?

Who's who in a lodge
Camp Manager
A camp manager is your first point of contact regarding anything concerning your overall stay. He or she can liaise with head office via the radio and will try to rectify any complaints or accommodate any requests, whether regarding dietary quirks, a change in your daily timetable or your need for more camera film to be sent in on the next plane. The manager will host you during meals and should check everything is comfortable and satisfactory. Essentially, his or her job is to ensure that the camp runs smoothly and guests have as flawless a stay as possible.

Guides
Guides are responsible for all game-viewing activities. They will pick routes designed to optimise your chances of spotting animals, and to provide variation in both scenery and species. They should also try to accommodate your wishes and to find game you particularly want to see (though there are never guarantees - one of the chief pleasures of a safari). A guide is responsible for your safety in the bush, so it is vital you follow his or her instructions.

Guides are also your primary source of information about the workings of the bush and its inhabitants, and should be happy to answer any questions. They will usually also host you during meals.

Camp Staff
Behind the scenes is a team of chambermaids who will clean your tent during the morning game drive and unfurl your mosquito net during dinner; mechanics who maintain the safari vehicles and generator (if there is one); and kitchen staff who create meals that defy belief given your location. Remember them when you tip, even though you may not meet them.

For more information on travelling in Africa, visit Travel Africa Magazine

Published in Travel Africa Edition Eighteen: Winter 2001/02. Text is subject to Worldwide Copyright (c)