Havana good time

Revolution revived

The real Granma, the yacht in which Castro and 81 others sailed from Mexico in 1956 to launch the revolution, is on display at a memorial accessible through the Museo de la Revolution, which occupies the Palacio Presidential, official residence of 21 Cuban presidents from 1920-65. The museum itself is largely revolutionary propaganda in Spanish, but is still well worth a visit for the background and history of one of the most enduring legacies of the 20th century.

How long that legacy will last is an enduring question. Before I left the UK many people insisted now is the time to visit Cuba and they are right. Cuba is changing by the day as the burgeoning tourism industry seems increasingly at conflict with the socialist regime - private sector vs public sector, free market vs state-controlled.

If - and it remains a big if - the US lifts its 41-year embargo, Cuba will see dramatic change. Close to Florida, it will be flooded with Americans and US businesses will move in. It won't become the Hollywood playground of the 1950s again, but it won't remain the secret it is today.

In the know

Up your street?
If you're after history, culture and something a little different, then Havana should be right up your street. However, you shouldn't need more than a few days here and it's not for those looking to relax or shop - the beach resort of Varadero is very much geared up to families and couples and is just over an hour's drive away. Alternatively, Santa Maria del Mar is just 20 minutes east and is probably the most beautiful beach in the area.

When should I go?
The best time to visit Cuba is between November and March, when the climate is at its best. The heat can be unbearable during July and August and the rainy season in September and October attracts the occasional hurricane.

Something extra
Santa Clara and Trinidad are both close enough to Havana to warrant a day-trip and most tour operators offer the chance to visit other parts of Cuba. Santa Clara is best known as Che's city - this is where the remains of Ernesto 'Che' Guevara lie and in a museum here you can see the jacket he wore in that photo. Trinidad is a fascinating and beautiful little city, almost unchanged since the 19th century - the centre is protected by UNESCO and the cobblestoned streets are lined with blue, pink and green buildings.

Value factor
While Cuba is not as cheap as some other Caribbean destinations, it is still good value against UK prices. Imported goods obviously attract a higher premium, but Cuban produce is remarkably cheap - cigars and rum for example. While tourists will generally pay a tourist rate in dollars, eating out should cost no more than around $10 per person, including drinks.

Essentials
Currency: Cuban peso. Exchange rate: £1 = CUP1.58. Tourists, however, will use the US dollar (£1 = $1.52) for almost everything. You should be warned that credit cards issued through US banks will not be accepted, so it's wise to check with your issuer.
Time: GMT - 5. International dial code: 00 53.

Stay healthy
Cuba has one of the best healthcare systems in the world, although as a foreigner you will be expected to pay, so make sure you are insured. The main problem you will likely come across is mosquitoes, so take repellent; the good news is they're not malarial.

Red tape
British visitors require a visa costing £15 from the Cuban Consulate. There is a $20 departure tax from Cuban airports.

Getting there & around
The only scheduled flights from the UK are with Air Jamaica and Cubana from London, but charter flights operate from Gatwick and Manchester. The direct flight time from London is around 10 hours. Air France and Iberia offer scheduled flights via Paris and Madrid respectively. Taxis are the best way of getting around Havana, especially if you jump in one of the many classic cars available - make sure it's metered or you agree a price, though.

Top tips

• Paladares (private restaurants) are one of the few signs of free trade and offer the chance for visitors to mix with Cubans in their homes.
• Hang around Parques Central and you'll get the opportunity to be driven in a classic American car. Hire a driver for the day or just use instead of a taxi.
• Tourist police stand on most street corners in Havana should you be in need of help.
• Beware of blackmarket cigars. Cuban cigars are sealed in a box with a banknote-style label at the front and a smaller Habanos label in the corner.
• Be sure to read Graham Greene's Our Man in Havana or Hemingway's The Old Man and The Sea.
• Mojitos, Daiquiris, Ron Collins - all Cuban cocktails consist of rum, so you better learn to love the spirit.

What next?
Cuba Tourist Office: 0900 1600 295, www.cubatravel.cu
Cuban Consulate: 020 7240 2488

For more information on tour operators featuring Havana and the rest of Cuba, visit www.abta.com