Off the beaten track in Mauritius

Mauritius may look to the coast for its tourist dollars (and francs, rands and pounds), but naturalists and country lovers head south to the Black River Gorges National Park, a small reserve of remnant forest and heathland, rocky outcrops and the occasional waterfall. Here are found pandanus palms (screwpines), a few ebony and teak trees, and many of the island's 150 endemic plants, including orchids and feathery ferns.

At Black River the Mauritian authorities - making up for the slaughter of the dodo 300 years ago - are trying to save some of the island's threatened wildlife, notably the endangered Mauritian kestrel and the pink pigeon. Other endemic birds include the scarlet-headed Mauritius fody (also known as the banana bird or cardinal), the Mauritius flycatcher and a local parakeet, whose call is neatly summed up in Linnean Latin as Psittacula echo.

Like the island itself Mauritius' wildlife comes in mini portions. There are no large mammals here, though I once surprised a pair of macaque monkeys, introduced from south-east Asia, sneaking out of a cane field. In the forest, Mauritian fruit bats hang from trees, their nervous fox-like faces peeking out from beneath their wings. As if Mauritians haven't learnt the lesson of the dodo, however, fruit bats are still caught for the pot.

More adventurous souls can seek out endemic reptiles on several micro-islands, Round Island, Flat Island and Gabriel Island, to the north of the mainland. The islands formed the focus for one of the late Gerald Durrell's wildlife-collecting forays. Several Mauritian species, including Telfair's skink, Gunther's geckos, boas and the pink pigeon, subsequently formed part of a breeding programme at Durrell's Jersey Wildlife Preservation Trust - whose symbol, incidentally, is the dodo.

On the cultural front, Mauritius is more limited. Many of the island's earliest buildings, battered by cyclones or demolished by developers' zeal, have themselves gone the way of the dodo, although what stands today is as varied as the Mauritian people and reflects the island's multi-cultural traditions. Hindu temples adorned with statues of Krishna, Parvati and Ganesh (the elephant god) dot the landscape. Modest Creole houses with timber walls and hot tin roofs are now the exception rather than the rule, though often a delight. Quaint old churches pop up in the most unlikely places; occasional mosques call the faithful to prayer.

Large estate houses, too, are an essential part of the Mauritian landscape. One of the earliest of these grandiose villas, known as Eureka, is now a private museum preserved much as it was in the 19th century. A long, low house, magnificently sited beneath Junction Peak, south of Port Louis, it features a wraparound verandah, a style that was repeated in a multitude of forms throughout the island. Inside, fine period furniture, much of it from the French and English East India Companies, creates an atmosphere of another, long lost world.

Several other historic houses are also open to the public. At Curepipe, hidden down a leafy sidestreet, lies the Sablonniere, a traditional house built in 1888 and set in formal gardens, with beds of yellow day lilies, slender palms and an extraordinary tropical fig tree. In the grounds stands a miniature Eiffel Tower, a curious reminder of the family's French origins. The house is now a luxury carpet shop selling intricate silk weaves from Kashmir.

Even more impressive is the fine Saint Aubin plantation house which now operates as an up-market restaurant (reservations only). Before lunch, diners can tour the local anthurium nurseries and neighbouring tea factory. The rich sweet smell of prepared tea and the glorious red anthurium blooms are the perfect complement to a Mauritian meal of palm heart salad and dry curry, accompanied by rougaille, a hot tomato and onion side dish. As the English poet William Cowper wrote in 1785: "Variety's the very spice of life / That gives it all its flavour." He could have been talking about Mauritius.

Mauritius Factfile

Getting There
Several major European, a number of African airlines and Air Mauritius fly into Plaisance Airport, about 50km from Port Louis. Air Mauritius also connects to Rodrigues Island several times a week. Messageries Maritimes and a number of other lines offer berths on ships visiting the island. Visas are not required for holders of most European, Commonwealth and African passports, but you must have a return ticket. You'll need to check with the Mauritian Embassy whether yellow fever or cholera certificates are required.

Getting Around
There are a number of self-drive car (and bicycle) hire firms in Port Louis. Taxis operate in urban areas and villages, and buses link all parts of the island. Several operators offer excursions to places of interest and tours of the island. There is a very good network of tarred roads.

Where to Stay
There are at least eight hotels in Port Louis and one or more in Coromandel, Rose Hill, Belle Rose, Quatre Bornes, Curepipe, Floreal and Plaine Magnien. There are also over a dozen beach resort hotels spread along the island shores or beside lagoons within the barrier reef. Some, like Le Prence, are exclusive five-star establishments and many self-catering apartments are pretty luxurious too. For the more budget conscious there are beach bungalows and pensions, which provide reasonable family accommodation. Reservations are recommended during the high season (June - September).

When to go
The high season (during Mauritian winter) is normally pleasantly warm at about 20 degrees C. January to March is cyclone time and the humidity can climb. Good off-season periods are May/June and October-December. Deep-sea fishing is best between October and March.

What to Pack
At the coast, cool cotton is ideal though pullovers or jackets may be needed after sunset. You'll certainly find jerseys desirable on winter evenings. A raincoat or umbrella and insect repellent are also recommended.

Local Tourist Information
Mauritius Government Tourist Office tel: 011703 Mauritius Travel and Tourist Bureau (semi-official) and Alliance Touristique de l'Ocean Indien (ATOI)

Chris Hellier is a freelance travel writer and photographer whose work has appeared in numerous publications, including Time, Sunday Times, International Herald Tribune, and World Magazine.

For further information on travel in Africa, visit Travel Africa Magazine

Published in Travel Africa Edition Sixteen: Summer 2001 Text is subject to Worldwide Copyright (c)