The best of Brighton

Talking shop
Brighton is a shopaholic's paradise. In the famous North Laine area (shoehorned between The Pavilion and The Palace Pier), you'll find everything from cool vintage clothes to kitsch furniture. If you've got a spare couple of hours, check out Snoopers Paradise, an amazing flea-market in Kensington Gardens. It's like a trip back through time, with offbeat kitsch like that Seventies table lamp your mum and dad had, and antique jewellery. (I've spotted Julian Clary there, buying old postcards.) Don't be put off by the market's ramshackle appearance - you do have to dig around, but it's safe and there are great bargains to be had.

For shamelessly tacky souvenirs, pop into The Old Rocke Shop, opposite Regency Square. Not only is the 128-year-old building still in surprisingly good nick, but you can also get some top-quality novelties here. Liquorice-flavoured bacon-and-egg, anyone?

Then there's the mecca for chocoholics - ChoccyWoccyDooDah (27 Middle Street). The amazing creations have to be seen to be believed, from four-tier wedding cakes featuring chocolate cabbages to the shop's less extravagant but hugely popular chocolate bars.

Eating out
The city has loads of options ranging from fresh, hot donuts on the pier to more refined dining. Brighton isn't known for its culinary sophistication, but that doesn't mean you can't find great food, as long as you know where to look.

• Harry's
  41 Church Road (01273 727410)
  This place serves the best full-on English breakfast in Brighton - wear an elasticated waist to tackle the artery-clogging classic. In the evening, the restaurant does posh versions of traditional English fare - think quality sausages and creamy mash. It's a good idea to make reservations. In the summer months, Harry's is always packed.

• Terre à Terre
  71 East Street (01273 729051)
  Take your camera along when you eat here (booking is a must). The stunningly-presented modern vegetarian food arrives at your table ready for its close-up. But by all means do tuck in. The food is reliably delicious, especially the home-made rum truffles for pudding.

• Regency
  131 Kings Road (01273 325014)
  Give the over-priced Harry Ramsden's a miss, and have your fish-and-chip tea here instead. The distinctive restaurant looks like it has been beamed up straight out of a 'Carry On' film, and beyond the fish and chips, their seafood platters are brilliant value, as well. The sea views make it especially popular in the summertime.