Lonely Planet - London

8. Relive the Tower of London's gory history

'Uneasy lies the head that wears the crown': that Shakespeare quote comes quickly to mind at the Tower of London. A uniquely well preserved medieval castle with a gory past, it's where King Henry VIII's wife Anne Boleyn, among others, was beheaded. It also houses the sparkling British Crown Jewels.

The complex was begun in 1078 under William the Conqueror, with the central White Tower (look for the flag). The surrounding walls, towers, palace and riverside wharf of Traitors' Gate came later. Originally a royal residence, the tower was increasingly used as a prison from the 16th century. Sir Thomas More, Princess (later Queen) Elizabeth and later Nazi Rudolf Hess were held captive here. Yeoman Warders (Beefeaters) lead free tours half-hourly between 9.30am (10am on Sundays) and 3.30pm; the best strategy is to drift in and out of these groups. Listen out for highlights: the myth of the ravens; the scaffold site where people faced execution; and the Bloody Tower, where young Edward V and his brother were allegedly murdered, possibly by their uncle Richard III.

Such random eavesdropping is easier after noon, when crowds are thinner. If you buy your entry ticket from a London Underground station you needn't queue, either.

9. Take your pick from art, history and science at the Kensington Museums

Thank the Victorians for kick-starting this handy cluster. They launched the Natural History Museum and the Victoria & Albert Museum, while the Science Museum followed in the 1920s. Now visitors can choose between three very diff erent neighbouring collections.

The Victoria & Albert Museum focuses on arts, crafts and design exhibits, and a few years ago its four million exhibits were frankly rather jumbled and unfocused. However, it's been having a very efficient tidy-up, especially on the lower floors. The masterpiece is the spectacular Jameel Gallery of Islamic Art, centred on the intricate Ardabil Carpet, but the sculpture collection has also been rearranged, near the re-landscaped garden. There's a tempting, well-lit shop and a new cafe in the historic Morris and Gamble Rooms.

Coming up is a new education centre in late 2007, a made-over jewellery section in 2008, and revamped medieval and Renaissance collections in 2009. In the meantime, the Fashion Gallery and blockbuster temporary exhibitions are always fantastically engaging.

The Natural History Museum across the road is a big hit with children. The ornate neo-Gothic main building, by architect Alfred Waterhouse, does feature some state-of-the-art animatronic dinosaurs. Yet ultimately this part of the collection still evokes the musty moth-eaten era of the 19th-century gentleman scientist, with its Diplodocus dinosaur skeleton, taxidermic birds, fossils, creepy crawlies, life-size blue whale model and zoological specimens. Gems and minerals are found in the more modern and opulent, but less unusual, Earth Galleries.

Finally, the superb Science Museum enthrals kids small and large. Parents are particularly taken with the genuine historical artefacts, such as the Apollo 10 command module, Stephenson's Rocket steam-engine train and planes including Amy Johnson's Gypsy Moth. Meanwhile, there's an IMAX cinema and plenty of simulator rides to thrill their progeny.

The hi-tech Wellcome Wing at the back of the building and the outstanding Energy Gallery & Ring on the 2nd floor of the main hall both have stimulating hands-on displays, covering a vast range of subjects from identity to future energy sources.

Friday lates & science night sleepovers
Even before the Victoria & Albert Museum started sorting out its rambling collection, it was lauded for its educational and community schemes. Now it's gaining a reputation for its social evenings. The last weekend of every month, craft (knitting, pottery, Islamic design etc) meets clubbing at its special Friday Late evenings.

Now the Natural History Museum is following suit, while the Science Museum has a similar social hit, albeit for families. Check the website or ring for details of its occasional Science Night Sleepovers.

10. Watch London glide by from the comfort of a River Thames cruise

Its skyline drastically transformed in the past decade with new buildings, London has never looked so good from a river cruise. Today your journey is not only marked by classic icons like the Houses of Parliament, St Paul's Cathedral and the Tower of London and Tower Bridge, you also sail past 21st-century riverfront symbols like the London Eye, Tate Modern, the Millennium Bridge, City Hall and the 'Gherkin'.

The main sights handily lie between Westminster and the Tower of London piers, but trips downriver to Greenwich or the Thames Flood Barrier are also interesting. Travelling upriver is a relaxing way to reach Kew Gardens or Hampton Court Palace, but there's less to see in this direction.

Dinner cruises aside, booking is rarely necessary, just to pop down to the nearest pier. For something a bit newer and more exciting, try a fast RIB London Voyage.