Lonely Planet - London

11. Have a fine time in the quaint 'Village' of Greenwich

Leafy Greenwich is home to the Prime Meridian of longitude. It's at zero hour and zero degrees, and thus the global point dictating how all clocks are set. So it's strange how easy it is to lose track of time exploring this beautifully landscaped district.

The most common reason people come is to stand with one foot in the world's western hemisphere and the other in the east at the Royal Observatory. But there are museums, a hillside park, shops and pubs to enjoy too. Greenwich's charm is that it's still a bit like a village.

The Royal Naval College, by Renaissance architect Sir Christopher Wren, is just as essential as the hilltop observatory. Closer to the riverfront, it features two separate wings, considerately leaving unobscured river views from earlier designer Inigo Jones's Queen's House behind it. The University of Greenwich and Trinity College of Music now inhabit Wren's buildings, with just two public rooms: the ornate Chapel and astounding Painted Room.

The nearby National Maritime Museum boasts a beautifully laidout collection, from a gilded barge to the bullet-torn coat worn by Admiral Nelson at the Battle of Trafalgar. Afterwards, there's still the chance to walk across the River Thames via the underwater Greenwich Foot Tunnel or the opportunity to view the Millennium Dome over a pint in the Trafalgar Tavern.

12. Head for a picnic with a view on Hampstead Heath

A slice of quintessential English countryside in the big city, Hampstead Heath is less manicured and more natural feeling than London's parks, and larger than any of its leafy commons. It comprises 320 hectares of meadows, woods, lakes, sculptures, cafes, tennis courts and walking trails, and is a great retreat from the stresses of the city.

A high point is Parliament Hill, Londoners' favourite kite-flying spot and a top place to watch the sun rise, particularly after an all-nighter.

It offers expansive views, from the well-heeled surrounding districts to St Paul's Cathedral and the London Eye in the distance.

The heath's renowned bathing ponds are dotted around, with the women's and men's ponds on the eastern border and the mixed pond further west. The neoclassical mansion Kenwood House houses a small painting collection and has appeared in several period films.

Its lawn, like the rest of the heath, is perfect for picnics. On summer evenings, pull up a chair for the open-air classical concerts.

The West Heath is such a well-established gay cruising area that the police come to protect the men who spend their nights here.

Actually on the heath, the popular Spaniard's Inn attracts a broad crowd of drinkers, gay and straight.

13. Feel London's retail heart beat at its most popular markets

Although it's become more corporate, with a shiny retail and restaurant complex encroaching on its territory in the past few years, Spitalfields Market still does a roaring trade on Sundays. Local hipsters, creative types, yummy mummies and the odd foreign TV crew all rub shoulders among the stalls. The plethora of nearby shops and pubs also keeps it one of London's essential shopping experiences.

Unique clothes and accessories from independent young designers dominate the market's tightly packed core. You'll also fi nd new and vintage homewares, secondhand books, vinyl records, CDs, old turntables and musical instruments.

Meanwhile across town, Londoners themselves are flocking to Borough Market, particularly on Saturdays. If you're a short-term visitor, the city's best food market might offer fewer sturdy souvenirs than Spitalfields, but it's also an enjoyable way to get a feel for the contemporary city.

If you're a real market junkie looking for something a bit different, skip Camden and Portobello and make a beeline for Broadway Market or Columbia Road Flower Market instead.