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Lonely Planet - London

continued from page 4

14. Dine out with a celebrity chef

In 2005 when US foodie magazine Gourmet declared London 'the best place in the world to eat' the snorts of derision could be heard all the way from San Francisco and Sydney. (Well, at least from such a distance these doubters were safe from the f***ing wrath of London's straight-talking mega-chef Gordon Ramsay.) British food has been historically famed for its awfulness, and the past decade's gastronomic renaissance has met with some scepticism, thanks to steep bills and occasionally overenthusiastic reviews.

Yet London restaurants have unquestionably made huge advances.

Rising to the demands of an increasingly well-travelled and discerning public, kitchens have proved their mettle with real skill and creativity. Home to some of the best-known, most lauded and ambitious chefs right now, London at least boasts an incredibly exciting dining scene.

It's not all Gordon Ramsay or Jamie Oliver, either, where you'll need to book months ahead. Many others have won Michelin stars and praise from hard-nosed critics. Tom Aikens, Fergus Henderson, Giorgio Locatelli, Marcus Wareing and Alan Yau have all also made a notable impression.

Celebrity haunts add glamour, while the emphasis on fresh produce and imaginative preparation has trickled down to cheaper restaurants, if sometimes unevenly.

15. Go for a curry, a time-honoured London experience

Even in the dim, dark days when unappetising English food was still scraping the bottom of the barrel - an action, it must be said, consumers then rarely mimicked - one variant was always a world-beater.

Thanks to historic ties with the Indian subcontinent, London has long boasted excellent curry houses. Although the 'Indian' dishes served are often post-colonial hybrids, they've certainly won a loyal following.

In London, 'going for a curry' became a mainstream pursuit in the 1980s. With the newly liberalised economy running rampant, macho stockbrokers began charging down restaurant-lined Brick Lane in search of the spiciest vindaloo.

Today Brick Lane endures, but restaurant touts now hassle for business and the street is considered past its prime. However, carnivores will still be wowed by the curry houses of Whitechapel (such as New Tayyab), vegetarians will enjoy the South Indian outlets along Drummond St (such as Chutney's) and adventurous connoisseurs of either persuasion might consider visiting Tooting.

This being London, the humble curry house is matched by many upmarket restaurants. Venues such as Amaya, Cafe Spice Namaste, the Cinnamon Club and the Painted Heron give Indian cuisine a sophisticated modern twist.

16. Take your seats for the world's best theatre

Depth, breadth, Hollywood names in lights and bums on seats - all are measures of the rude good health London's theatreland currently still finds itself in. Whether you want unforgettable drama, experimental comedy or mainstream musicals, the chance to see a play here is one of life's great pleasures.

London has always enjoyed a sterling reputation on stage, but in the late 1990s it entered a halcyon period. A lot of attention focuses on movie stars treading the boards. But talented acting, by both fi lm stars and experienced stage performers, is only part of the story.

Great playwrights and directors are also pivotal.

Nicholas Hytner has been a leading light in this regard, injecting new life into the flagship National Theatre. Under his artistic directorship, it's been commissioning innovative works from established and new playwrights, adapting classics and creating sometimes unexpected hits. The theatre has also created a new generation of theatre fans, selling thousands of cheap seats as part of its summertime Travelex season.

Shakespeare's recreated Globe Theatre, the Royal Shakespeare Company and Royal Court are other major draws.

Meanwhile, smaller theatres and companies like the Almeida, BAC Donmar Warehouse and Young Vic play an excellent support role.

17. Dig the Hoxton and Shoreditch clubbing scene

While New York has the Meat-Packing District, and Berlin boasts Prenzlauer Berg, London has Shoreditch. This is the archetypal neglected and forgotten neighbourhood that's now been reborn as a creative magnet and nightlife hub. And having first burst on the scene more than a decade ago, the enclave around Hoxton, Shoreditch and Spitalfields has demonstrated remarkable stamina and longevity.

A formerly uninspiring urban wasteland - following the collapse of its fabric and other industries - Shoreditch first began attracting poverty-stricken artists in the early to mid-1990s, with its cheap warehouse spaces to rent. Today it's one of the planet's hottest 'hoods and continues to hang on to precious street cred by expanding into even edgier districts.

Cutting-edge clubs and both super-slick and artfully dishevelled bars now dot the Shoreditch landscape, interspersed with fashionable restaurants, hip hotels, streetwear boutiques, delis, photo labs and new media start-ups. While new venues spring up regularly, some of the capital's nightlife stalwarts - Cargo, Loungelover, the Vibe Bar, 93 Feet East and 333 to name just a few - are found here.

Really, however, the choices are huge.

Reproduced with permission from London Encounter ©2007 Lonely Planet Publications



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