Lonely Planet - Istanbul

7. Calling for more raki on Nevizade Sokak, the location of the city's most convivial street party

Buried in the maze of narrow streets behind the historic Cicek Pasajy (Flower Passage) on Istiklal Caddesi, Nevizade Sokak is one of the most famous eating precincts in the city - and it's certainly the most atmospheric. On most nights of the week its taverns spill onto the narrow street, tables heaving with locals babbling over a messy spread of meze and fish, washed down with tall glasses of milky white raki (aniseed brandy). Pedlars move from table to table selling fresh almonds or roses, while clutches of fasyl (energetic folk music) musicians in a frenzied blur of clarinets, violins, darbukas (drums shaped like an hourglass) and uds (six-stringed Arabic lutes) transform the diners into dancers as they take requests and return wisecracks for tips. A sterling night out is guaranteed.

8. Witnessing prayer time at the Ottoman Empire's finest mosque, The Suleymaniye

Most visitors take a quick look-see at Suleymaniye and marvel at the splendid architecture, but miss the living energy of this place.

While being inside the mosque during prayer times for non-Muslims is inappropriate, spending an hour or so witnessing the pre-prayer ritual respectfully from a distance is simply unforgettable. Arrive at the mosque shortly before the ezan (call to prayer) and find yourself a discrete vantage point in the greater courtyard. The faithful enter the courtyard one by one and silently perform their ritualistic ablutions along the flanks of the mosque. They then make their way into the forecourt, remove their shoes and slip behind the thick padded covering over the main door. Entering the mosque after a communal prayer session, with the musky scent of hundreds of worshippers lingering in the air, you are reminded that this is a living space, not a museum or an ancient relic.

Time your visit for evening, when arc lights enhance the curves of the dome and the birds circle endlessly after insects around ghostly minarets, or witness the midday prayers on a Friday, the Muslim holy day. Attending Friday prayers delivers greater spiritual reward, and Suleymaniye's is one of the most important prayer sessions in the city; often worshippers are so numerous they spill out into the forecourt.

9. Surrendering to steam and a sudsy massage at a historic Ottoman hamam

In 19th-century Istanbul the highlight of a woman's week was her day out at the hamam (bathhouse), where she would steam, snooze, chatter and picnic. The wealthy would totter on their nalyn (wooden clogs) past the riff raff into private washing rooms, usually off the sides of the sicaklik (steam room). But all of the action was centred on the smooth marble gobektasi (belly stone), with women soaping, sudsing and scrubbing with a kese (coarse cloth mitten), lit by the steamy rays from the star-shaped peepholes of the lofty dome. And while few would deny the objective of the visit was a head-to-toe clean, everyone knew the real attraction was gossip. With socially restricted lives, the all-female domain of the hamam was the one place women could let loose.

Although modern bathrooms have reduced the need for public bathhouses, the tradition of the leisurely soak and gossip in wonderful Ottoman-era surrounds is still alive. It's an opportunity too good for visitors to pass up; succumbing to the deft hands of the masseur for a thorough ablution will leave you initially feeling slightly tender - scrubbing and massage can be vigorous - then you'll go all languid, and ultimately you'll feel invigorated. You might prefer not to think about how much dirt comes off you, but you'll be surprised how good some warm water, soap and manual handling make you feel.

10. Whiling away an afternoon drinking tea and puffing on a nargileh

The nargileh (water pipe) is making a comeback in the city. No longer solely the domain of moustached gents reminiscing about the good old days in Anatolia, today's hip nargileh devotees are budding intelligentsia, bubbling for hours on end between university classes.

Although there are many spots to sample nargilehs in Old Istanbul, the most popular nargileh hang-out is beside the Nusretiye Camii, in Tophane. Playing backgammon, drinking innumerable tulip glasses of tea and taking in the intoxicating breeze of apple tobacco is the best introduction to keyif (the Turkish art of quiet relaxation) you could ask for. And yes, the fruit-molasses-cured tobacco leaf used in the nargileh has all the health risks of other tobaccos, but it is rendered so smooth and silky that even nonsmokers enjoy the odd puff . Consider yourself warned.

Reproduced with permission from Istanbul Encounter ©2007 Lonely Planet Publications