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Destination: New Orleans
Don't let memories of Hurricane Katrina put you off visiting New Orleans. True, there's still a lot of rebuilding to be done, but visitors will find that 'Nawlins' is very much open for business and that Southern hospitality makes you very welcome
The battered, charming French Quarter was the site of the original settlement in New Orleans and remains the place that tourists favour. Its streets are lined with beautiful buildings, many with fanciful cast iron balconies.
Although many of the buildings look fairly non-descript from the front, they usually have hidden courtyards away from the street where the owners can relax. Restaurants often use these courtyards as additional dining space, and with its warm climate, you can enjoy al fresco dining for most of the year.
There are orientation tours operating around the city that will show you the sights, and add a dash of local colour. You can choose different themes for tours, including a food-based one, or another that focuses on the Voodoo traditions of the town, but there's a lot of pleasure in just wandering on your own.
You can't really get lost as the streets are on a grid, and it's fairly easy to find your bearings. The whole French Quarter is only 13 blocks wide, so distances are no problem. You can easily walk from here to the Mississippi River to gain an understanding of how New Orleans came about.
Hotel Monteleone
If you want to immerse yourself in the French Quarter, stay at the Hotel Monteleone on Royal Street. This landmark hotel is the oldest in the city and has been run by the same family since 1886. With its elegant Baroque facade and beautiful marble lobby, you feel as if you're entering a different world when you step inside.
The rooms are very comfy, with wonderful bathrooms, and the hotel has a stunning rooftop pool if you need a refreshing dip. There's also a revolving carousel bar which is well worth a look, even if you're not staying.
Finding Desire
Be sure to ride the street cars. Immortalised by Tennessee Williams in his play A Streetcar named Desire, these original vehicles with their wooden seats, epitomise the charm and romance of the city. Catch them where you see a small yellow sign that reads 'Car Stop'. The fares are cheap ($1.25) but you do need the right change.
The St Charles Line travels from the edge of the French Quarter into the Garden District. This historic area, full of huge, elegant mansions, dates from the 1850s when the nouveau riche of the time moved there. You can take a walking tour of the area to learn more about the history or just head off on your own and admire the views.
The mighty Mississippi
The Mississippi was the lifeblood of New Orleans for many years. It's the second longest river in the United States stretching 2,340 miles from its source in Minnesota to the Gulf of Mexico. During the 19th century, steamboats starting travelling along its length, carrying both passengers and freight. The river's power was demonstrated again in 2005 when Hurricane Katrina devastated the area, submerging 80 per cent of the city as levees were breached.
The people are doing a remarkable job at repairing and rebuilding, and the overall feeling in the town is upbeat and determined. Many of the people who lost everything worked in the tourist industry and there's a huge push to encourage visitors again, not only to bring some money back to the city, but also to provide jobs.
There are many high-profile projects, such as the Pink Project by the Make it Right foundation. This scheme, fronted by Brad Pitt, plans to rebuild 150 homes, while Harry Connick Jr. and Branford Marsalis of Habitat for Humanity are building a Musicians Village with 72 single family homes. These cheerfully painted buildings will provide homes to many of the musicians for which New Orleans is justly famous.
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