Destination: New Orleans

'Somebody scream!'

Music is everywhere in New Orleans! The rhythm of the city is jazzy and jubilant, soulful and spiritual, rocking and rolling. Whether it's buskers on the streets or bands playing in bars, you're guaranteed to find something you like, and you'll most likely hear the local catchphrase, 'Somebody scream!'

Many tourists head to Bourbon Street to sample the ridiculously strong Hurricane and Hand Grenade cocktails, so it's no surprise that this area is packed with drunks of varying degrees come nightfall. Don't be surprised if you see women flashing their boobs here. Men drinking in the balcony bars that line the street throw strings of beads down to women walking below, who often respond by raising their tee-shirts!

Pat O'Brien's Patio Bar is a favourite with visitors, with its Flaming Fountain, a stone and copper water feature with real flames! This friendly courtyard bar has become an institution since opening in 1933, and provides welcome relief from the sleazier girlie bars.

Away from Bourbon Street

Bourbon Street is worth dipping in and out of for some great people watching and a chance to enjoy the year-round carnival atmosphere, but if you want to get away from the crowds, head to Frenchmen Street. Located on the edge of the French Quarter and the neighbouring Faubourg Marigny district, this road is packed with bars and music.

This is where the locals hang out and is a late-night place, with a real mixture of sounds, from reggae to traditional jazz. Just stroll along and stop at any of the bars that take your fancy. They don't charge for the music, although you are expected to tip. The drinking laws are relaxed in New Orleans, so it's common practice to take your drink (in a plastic cup) from bar to bar, so you don't worry about downing drinks if you want to move on.

If you want to listen to jazz while you eat, try the Palm Court Jazz Cafe on Decatur Street. Surprisingly, there aren't many places that offer the mix of food and music, but this place offers basic food with top-notch jazz performances. Another option is the Court of Two Sisters on Royal Street, which offers an extremely popular daily jazz brunch from 9am to 3pm, with just about everything you could wish for, together with the New Orleans staple - the King cake - a Danish pastry dough-cake iced with the colours of the Mardi Gras.

Need to know

Mardi Gras is New Orleans carnival season and runs every year from January 6 until Ash Wednesday (February 6). Introduced to the city in the 1740s, this celebration mixes the Christian customs of marking the beginning of Lent with feasts and parties, with African and Caribbean traditions. The result is a non-stop street party with masked balls and parades.

From March 2008, foreign visitors to the US will be required to give all ten fingerprints on arrival, which will then be stored on a biometrics database. Since 2004, the Homeland Security Department has been collecting index fingerprints from foreign visitors aged from 14 to 79 and now has 90 million sets of prints on record. It is hoped collecting additional fingerprints will improve security and make it harder for people to travel on forged passports.

We flew on Delta, which has daily flights from London Gatwick to Atlanta and then connecting flights to New Orleans. In keeping with other US carriers, Delta charges for alcoholic drinks on the flight (although they offer a complimentary drink with a meal). The airline's economy seats are basic with standard leg room. The plane was old and showed its films on overhead screens.

More information

• Find out more about travelling to the USA - www.DiscoverAmerica.com
• For New Orleans Tourist information visit: www.neworleansonline.com
• Find out more about the Musician's Village (Habitat for Humanity - www.habitat-nola.org) and Make it Right's Pink Project (www.makeitrightnola.org)
• Court of Two Sisters - www.courtoftwosisters.com
• Hotel Monteleone - www.hotelmonteleone.com
• Find out how to make a Hurricane cocktail