Insider New York

East Village (East 14th St to Houston, east of Broadway) - A homeless riot here in the late 1980s has given way to lots of clubs, bars and tattooed 'musicians'. It's also home to the coolest bookshop in town, St. Mark's Bookshop (31 3rd Ave; +1.212.260.7853). St. Mark's Street (a.k.a. 8th Street) between 2nd and 3rd Avenues has masses of street life and shops selling cheap clothing and jewellery. Attractions: Cheap eats, post-university bar scene, St. Mark's Street.

West Village (East 14th St to Houston, west of 6th Ave) - Old-style New York architecture, lots of tourists, and the weird and wonderful characters in Washington Square Park. Attractions: cafes, bars, restaurants, shops.

Lower East Side (Between Houston and Grand St, east of Chrystie St) - This area is also known as the Bowery and used to be rough and unpalatable. So naturally it's now brimming with hip bars, boutiques and eateries. Try El Sombrero (regulars call it The Hat) for late-night Mexican food and margaritas in a grubby but groovy environment (108 Stanton St at Ludlow St, +1.212.254.4188). Attractions: The Lower East Side Tenement Museum, trendy boutiques, nightlife.

SoHo - Once an artists' enclave, now SoHo seems totally given over to fancy-pants art galleries and pricey boutiques. Shopping here on a Saturday is a combat sport, but also loads of fun. Great to wander on a Sunday morning before stopping for brunch. Try super-trendy Balthazar for fabulous croissants (80 Spring St between Broadway and Crosby St; +1.212.965.1414) or the more low-key Cupping Room Café (359 W. Broadway between Broome and Grand Sts, +1.212.925.2898). Attractions: Shops, galleries and all the other people.

TriBeCa (Centre St to the Hudson River below Canal a.k.a. the TRIangle BElow CAnal) - It's been reported that between 1970 and 1980 the population of TriBeCa jumped from 243 to 5,101, most of them hopelessly hip. Join their ranks by strolling the streets, enjoying the old architecture and surfeit of eateries and bars. Attractions: Tribeca Film Center (Robert De Niro's a co-founder).

The Meatpacking District - the anointed hot neighbourhood with stockbroker prices at the clubs, restaurant and apartment buildings. You might also come across some hookers who haven't gotten the gentrification memo. Book a table in advance at Pastis (9 Ninth Av. at Little W 12th St.;+1.212.929.4844) to join the celebs-and-fatcats scene. Or hit the more affordable all-night French diner Florent (69 Gansevoort St between Greenwich and Washington Sts; +1.212.989.5779). The infamous Hellfire sex club is also round here (28 Ninth Ave at 14th St; +1.212.647.0063). Attractions: Edgy, pricey hipster scene.

Upper West Side (West 60s to West 90s) - This liberal yuppie enclave retains some of its bohemian and intellectual roots. Here you'll find the kind of folks who would listen to the BBC's Radio 4 if they lived in the UK. Attractions: The American Museum of Natural History, Central Park, Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts, the IMAX theatre, Central Park

Near Columbia University (Broadway at W. 115th St) - Also known as Morningside Heights, this is great area for student bars, cheap accommodation (including a well-situated hostel) and simple but affordable eateries. Attractions: University vibe.

Upper East Side (East 60s to East 90s) - Society matrons walk their tiny dogs on Park Avenue and well-heeled shoppers troll the boutiques on Madison Avenue. The area between York and Third Avenues affords more colourful and occasionally seedier types. Attractions: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum, The Whitney Museum of American Art, shopping, Central Park