The best of Brighton

When to go
During summertime Brighton really dazzles - think beachlife, bohemia, and booze. But you can bet your bottom dollar that if you've opened the curtains on a glorious Saturday morning and thought, 'I'm off to Brighton,' hundreds of other people will have, too.

From June to August, the city gets seriously jammed - foreign tourists, British holidaymakers, and hen and stag parties fight for space on the beach. Don't even think about coming for an overnight stay during these months if you haven't booked accommodation in advance. You can make the most of the spring and summer weather with less hassle by arriving during the week and taking advantage of the many mid-week packages offered by hotels and B&Bs.

At other times of the year, there's nothing like getting all wrapped up and going for a walk by the stormy sea - some days, the only company you will have are the circling seagulls. Even in town there's a real melancholy beauty. Low season also means fewer jacked-up hotel prices, mile-long queues for the car parks, and patience-testing waits in restaurants.

Beach Life
The main drag on Brighton beach - from the Palace Pier to Hove - may be popular, but it isn't particularly picturesque. Because the shore is made up entirely of pebbles, it's also not the most comfortable stretch of waterfront for strolling barefoot or picnicking on. The upside: you won't get sand in your cheese sarnies.

Another reason you might want to give this part of the beach a miss is that in the summer, large gangs of lager-drinking lads take up residence. If you're looking for somewhere quieter - either on your own or with the kids - head for Hove beach, about a quarter of a mile west of Brighton. It's a 10-minute stroll away and you'll be rewarded with a cleaner and calmer beach. Try some of the delicious ice cream from Mario's, the family-run Italian restaurant on the front, and keep your eyes peeled for some famous residents. Fatboy Slim and Zoe Ball, Paul McCartney and Heather Mills are neighbours in the stunning row of houses nicknamed Millionaire's Row, at the west end of the beach.

If you'd like to get in the water but don't fancy dodging driftwood, you can go for a swim at the Prince Regent swimming pool in Church Street (01273 685 692), or you can be a proper bathing belle at Saltdean's stunning Art Deco Lido (01273 305155, Saltdean Park Road, Saltdean). Invest in an all-day bus ticket for around a couple of quid (you can ride as often as you like all around town) and catch a 712 bus to watch a less touristy Brighton go by. A fun game to play with the kids is to see if you can spot the buses with the names of famous residents painted on the front.