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Week 7: Wine-tasting, ranching and farewell
Join Meera on the last leg of her journey as she leaves the wilds of Patagonia and returns first to Buenos Aires, and then home to London
The wilderness of Patagonia now lies 3000 kilometres south and I'm back in buzzy Buenos Aires where I'm excited to meet Jay, a university friend who's booked herself a three-week trip to coincide with my last week. We take the overnight bus to Mendoza, the hub of Argentina's famous wine region, 1000 kilometres west of Buenos Aires. A 13-hour bus ride might sound like hell, but the seats fully recline, we're served dinner (albeit with a couple of dubious dishes), we watch Shrek and they even organise bingo. It's surreal, but a bargain for £25 (or 2.5p a kilometre).
Mendoza is a beautifully located city, backed by the Andes mountains, and with a smattering of atmospheric squares, a gorgeous park, arty market, the bars of Aristides Villanueva Street and numerous restaurants. That night, we head to Decimo, a stunning rooftop bar and restaurant where we sip champagne, share a platter before embarking onto mains, a bottle of red and dessert. The final bill is £33 - for three people. London feels like a world away...
Touring the wine region
A wine tour is a must if only to see the picturesque vineyards and sublime Andes views. We book with Ampora Wine Tours (www.mendozawinetours.com) and enjoy a fabulous day in the high-altitude Uco Valley, often compared to the Napa Valley 25 years ago. The views from Andeluna winery are particularly spectacular and we enjoy lunch at O'Fournier, one of Mendoza's most celebrated wineries. Its gourmet delights include the largest steak I've seen, a surprisingly tasty almond and garlic soup and a glass of their renowned A Crux vino.
In Mendoza, I part ways with Jay and return to Buenos Aires for one last shop, steak and, best of all, an overnight stay at Cabaña Los Dos Hermanos, an estancia (ranch) located 90 kilometres away. Here, surrounded by miles of rolling countryside and free of touristy gimmicks such as 100 daytrippers watching a staged gaucho (cowboy) show, I instead enjoy the hospitality of owners Pancho and Ana Peña, gauchos Don Juan and Alejandro and 12 other guests. We go horse-riding, enjoy a lavish lunch of sizzling meat, fresh salads and vino and later, a spot of poolside relaxation and hammock-lazing. That night, we dine al fresco and chat about all things Argentinian and British. The sky is packed with stars and the moon casts out its bright beam. Just as well as raging winds and rain cause a power cut. Once back in my cosy cabin, I sleep restfully... it beats shared dorms.
Back in Buenos Aires, I whizz about during my last three days. I go to Plaza de Mayo square for the weekly Thursday demonstration by the Mothers of Plaza de Mayo who to this day march for their children who 'disappeared' under Argentina's 1976-1983 military dictatorship. As you'd expect, it's very moving - the number of under-30s present illustrates just how relevant this part of Argentinian history remains. I get my art fix at the Malba (Museum of Latin American Art of Buenos Aires) and the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (National Gallery) and do some last-minute shopping at my favourite artesan market, El Paseo de la Resistencia, on Avenida de Mayo. You can never have enough embroidered leather wallets. Good stocking fillers anyway.
Two months have flown by, but I've covered so much ground that it feels like four - and I'm already aching to return. But as I fly over London on a clear day and look down to see the London Eye and the Houses of Parliament, it does feel good to be home. For a while anyway.
The Patagonian Wilderness trek is hosted by Intrepid Travel who specialise in small group adventures throughout Europe, Asia, Africa, the Middle East, Latin America, Australasia and the Pacific. The writer is travelling through South America courtesy of www.ebookers.com a leading pan-European online travel agency.
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