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Pampering yourself Lithuania-style

With high standards and low prices, Spa Vilnius is a perfect year-round venue for a few days of pampering that won't break the bank

The treatments had sounded amazingly cheap, but as we pulled up outside Spa Vilnius I wondered if there wasn't a good reason for that. The Soviet-era, eight-storey concrete tower in front of me, admittedly freshly scrubbed, hinted at equally brutal decor and therapists within.

I needn't have worried. The hotel reception was an airy, coffee-coloured space with funky light fittings and smiley English-speaking staff. Once checked in, I was escorted to the Wellness Centre, where another set of equally charming receptionists printed out my schedule for the next few days.

Massage to Mozart

Ten minutes later, after the quickest of trips to my room, I was whisked off for my first treatment, 90 minutes of something called 'chiromassage'. I was slightly shocked to be met by a solid, greying man, but my embarrassment faded as soon as he began to work on my pressure points, before expertly pulling, twisting, bending and stretching the tension out of my muscles to the sound of Mozart. My back loved it.

Next up was an aromatherapy face, neck and bust-firming massage, an altogether more serene experience. This time, I nearly drifted off under the warm hands of another of Spa Vilnius's experienced therapists, this time a woman (as most of them are), while soft jazz played in the background. I emerged after 30 blissful, sweet-scented minutes tranquil and with strict instructions not to shower until the following morning, to give the bust-firming creams, made for the spa in the Czech Republic, time to work their magic.

With a pre-dinner swim out of the question, I headed to the red, white and grey spa bar - all shiny vinyl cubes and snazzy swivel seats - for something to eat. The menu reflected the spa's emphasis on health, not just pampering. I opted for roasted halibut with vegetables and white sauce, which was delicious, and a pot of 'tranquillity' herb tea brewed with the local thermal mineral waters. After that, I could barely keep my eyes open, so I gave in and went to bed in my simply furnished but cosy room.

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