Pampering yourself Lithuania-style

Over the next three days, I worked my way through the treatment list with enthusiasm. The red grape bath was basically a (very blue) Jacuzzi for one with grape extract - known for its circulation-boosting properties - added to the bubbling hot mineral water. Whatever its other effects, it was certainly relaxing. After 20 minutes, I was so floppy you'd have thought I'd drunk the water, not just sat in it.

Mud bath

Along similar lines, but much hotter (so much so you have to have your blood pressure checked beforehand by the doctor) and without the bubbles, was the mud bath, good for everything from the joints to skin conditions such as eczema. It looked horrible - a big bright yellow bath full of brown sludge - and felt weird, too, as I stepped in. There was a thick layer of peat at the bottom and bits of ancient twigs, seeds, flowers and the rest floating above. Once I got used to the idea, though, I had a happy time massaging handfuls of mud into my skin. The 20 minutes whizzed by, and by the time I'd showered off the plant life, my back was completely ache-free.

The slightly clinical sounding 'body scrub procedure with individual steam/sauna bath' was anything but. First, the therapist washed me gently all over with a loofah glove. After that, she carefully applied an exfoliating cream made with crushed cocoa shell, which smelled fantastic, as well as being packed with anti-ageing plant antioxidants. After showering that off, the final step was a soothing steam in my own private cubicle. Result: amazingly soft, glowing and chocolate-scented skin.

No-nonsense facial

Not wanting to neglect my face, I also booked a capillary-strengthening facial, using Oligodermie products - just the thing for wind-blown, winter skin. It was 90 minutes of pure bliss in six stages, beginning with the gentlest of exfoliations, followed by deep cleansing and a heavenly massage. Next, the therapist applied a serum and covered my face almost totally with tissues and hot cloths for several minutes: a bit claustrophobic, but the warmth does help the product sink in better. There was more massage after that and then the all-important capillary-strengthening bit: a simple piece of coarse gauze laid on my face and a thick layer of seaweed gloop carefully smeared on top of it. Ten minutes later, it was lifted off, and with a quick cleanse and a dab of moisturiser I was ready to face the world.

I meant to try out the pool, the steam room and the fitness room as well, but somehow it didn't happen. One morning, I managed to fit in a walk around the resort itself, a leafy, low-key mix of 19th-century villas and Soviet blocks with a handful of shops and cafes. But mostly I drifted between treatments to the bar, working my way through the herb teas and discreetly watching the other spa guests, a wonderful mix of families, couples and groups of all ages from Lithuania and its immediate neighbours.

So were there any downsides at all? That depends on how you look at it. If you loathe chatty therapists, the good news is that few of Spa Vilnius's speak more than rudimentary English as they're of an older generation that had to learn Russian at school. Occasionally it can be frustrating, though, because they're so professional you feel sure they have all manner of handy tips on staying gorgeous. If you're serious about your health, however, there is an English-speaking doctor who can give advice on treatments. And design purists, take note: the decor in the treatment rooms (especially the mineral bath areas) is less glamorous than in reception, but who cares about office-style ceilings and patterned curtains when you have your eyes closed?

In spite of that, I'll definitely return to Spa Vilnius. Only next time, I'll take a friend, and a phrase book.

Cost: A 90-minute chiromassage costs £24, a 30-minute aromatherapy face, neck and bust firming massage is £10, and a 90-minute soothing, capillary-strengthening facial will set you back £28. The red-grape bath is £6 for 30 minutes.

How to get there: A three-night break at Spa Vilnius with Baltic Holidays (0845 070 5710, www.balticholidays.com) costs from £299 per person, based on two sharing. This includes return Gatwick flights, transfers and breakfast. Treatment-inclusive packages can be tailor-made to suit you.

For more information, visit www.spa-vilnius.lt

Spa Vilnius
K Dineikos str
Druskininkai
Lithuania
info@spa-vilnius.lt
www.spa-vilnius.lt