Print-and-go: Oxford on a budget
by Robert Dennis
Oxford is a living museum, with a thousand years of English art, culture and architecture waiting to be discovered. But don't worry... it's also a hip and happening city, with great shops, cafes and nightlife
Best bargains
Head for Gloucester Green (next to the coach station). It's Oxford's answer to Camden market, where you'll find clothes, jewellery and gifts. Check out Cult Clothing and Massive Records or Tiger Lily for goth chic, bongs and tattoos. Scour Oxford's famous Covered Market, a Victorian maze of boutiques, delicious delis and café culture.
Free fun
The city is at its best in the summer, but you'll have to fight your way through the tourists. If you want to see students in mortar boards and bow ties you'll need to be there in term time. Most Oxford colleges will let you wander round for free, but be prepared to stump up a few pounds if you're stopped at the gate. Stroll through Christchurch Meadow where you can walk along the banks of the Thames (which is called Isis here - just to be different). The University's famous museums, which include the Ashmolean (arguably the oldest museum in the world) and the Pitt Rivers (check out the gruesome shrunken heads), are all free to visitors.
Best view
Train your lens on the Radcliffe Camera in Radcliffe Square (actually the domed reading room of the world famous Bodleian Library). The Sheldonian Theatre (where graduation ceremonies are held) in Broad Street has busts of classical emperors on pillars. (Think ZZ Top without the shades.) Take a deep breath as you pass under the Bridge of Sighs, a mini version of the Venice original. If you've got time, head out and climb Boar's Hill, Oxford's Beverley Hills, for a picture postcard view of Oxford's 'dreaming spires'. Feeling athletic? If you don't mind the climb, then Carfax Tower and St Mary's Church both give you panoramic views from the heart of the city.
Cheap eats Pig out at The Nosebag on tasty homemade treats (self-service lunch counter and come-as-you-are afternoon teas). St Giles Cafe is an excellent greasy spoon and the Hi-Lo Jamaican Eating House in the Cowley Road is as famous for its welcoming atmosphere as it is for the food. Try Chiang Mai if you like Thai food but don't want to fork out too much.
Cheap travel
The city centre is small and you can do it on foot, but pick up a map as the medieval lanes and alleys can be confusing. You can always get on your bike - it's an easy way to get around, and you can hire one for the day. If you're doing the full Brideshead Revisited thing, then go to Magdalen Bridge where you can take a punt around the city's waterways (bring your own champagne and teddy bear).
Splash out
You can find chic accessories and the perfect vintage brooch in Little Clarendon Street. And if you want to mingle with Oxford's most stylish, both Freuds (a converted Greek church) and Raoul's are cocktail heaven. Alternatively, Oxford's famous pubs are mini heritage sites in their own right. If you can find it, The Turf Tavern, was Inspector Morse's favourite, while the Eagle and Child celebrates the spot where JRR Tolkien and CS Lewis supped ale and dreamt up worlds of fantasy and magic.
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Created: 15/10/2004 Updated: 09/08/2006







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