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Review: The Priory Inn, Tetbury, the Cotswolds

by Jennifer Howze
We visit a small family-friendly hotel in the Cotswolds where the extras are baby-oriented but the experience is all grown-up

The Priory Inn
London Road
Tetbury, Gloucestershire
England GL8 8JJ
01666 502251

theprioryinn.co.uk

Between high-rolling luxury family hotels and budget resorts like Butlins, there are few places where kids can take their parents for a nice but modestly-priced weekend away.

Dave and Tanya Kelly have turned The Priory Inn in Tetbury into that kind of place. From the outside The Priory looks undistinguished from many of the small inns around the Cotswolds. In fact, set across from a car dealership and just down from a petrol station, it doesn't look all that promising. Once inside however, the atmosphere is welcoming and easy-going to a fault. The design is contemporary, with soothing colours, simple furniture and modern but comfortable style - it offers plenty of visual charm.

But the real charm comes from the attitude of the hotel. The small touches make it a thoroughly enjoyable place to stay - being welcomed immediately when you walk in, the in-room complimentary basket of baby supplies for babies under one (including a bottle brush, washing-up liquid, books, toys, baby bubble bath and lotion), the casual coffee bar kitted out with a bottle sterilizer and microwave for warming bottles, and a restaurant that suits littles ones and grown-up tastes alike.

The Kellys have invested a lot of energy in creating a pub dining experience that marries traditional food with contemporary touches and provides the kind of place where kids can enjoy themselves too. My husband and I ate lunch with my 6-year-old stepson, our toddler and my in-laws. The restaurant offers a home-cooked kids' menu, but my stepson preferred to order one of their oven-fired pizzas. He was then thrilled that the man in a white hat was tossing the dough to make his own personal pizza. He could barely contain himself as it disappeared, replete with tomato and cheese topping, into the big pizza oven with flames fluttering in the background. Daddy, Granny and Grandpa all had to be led over to behold such baking magic.

Meanwhile, we enjoyed delicious grown-up dishes. My finicky father-in-law loved his club sandwich with grilled chicken, streaky bacon, tomato, lettuce and a fried free-range egg (£5.45). I had a burger with a tomato, herb and shallot relish with fries (£7.95), while my husband's simple-sounding fresh linguini bound with parmesan and herb cream (£5.95) was pitch perfect. When we visited the chef was a Gary Rhodes protegeé. The new head chef is Thomas Hohenschlager, a German who focuses on seasonal and local food including breads baked on-site. While the chef is new, the philosophy remains the same as when we visited say the owners: `simple done well'.

The restaurant itself, formerly the building's stable, is high-ceilinged with exposed beams, a central fireplace and a fully stocked bar in the back. Opposite the restaurant is the coffee bar/lounge, with a boxful of high-quality toys and children's books, papers for the parents and even computers for surfing the Internet.



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