Review: Babington House

With comfort levels as high as these, it would be very tempting to check into Babington and not leave your room for the entire duration of your stay. But you'd be missing out on everything else the hotel has to offer. Take a stroll around the grounds, for instance (even the wellies are provided). In one direction you'll find the church (yes, Babington has its own hotline to the Almighty), the cricket ground (which is where you land the helicopter, in case you were wondering) and, should you feel energetic, the tennis courts. Or rather, some of them. The others are on the far side of the house, as you head across the lawns towards the lake. Bridges over the lake take you to the woods, then bring you back round to the walled garden, where Babington grows the herbs they use to make the toiletries you'll find in your luxurious room which you left to start your walk about three hours ago ? It really is that sort of place. Further afield, the hotel can organise off-site jaunts such as ballooning (Hello, Richard!), golf, horse-riding or rock-climbing. Or you can keep it old-fashioned and borrow one of their bikes for a cycle ride.

But if all of this sounds too tiring, just head straight for the Cowshed, home to the hotel's gym, sauna, steam room, indoor swimming pool and outdoor swimming pool. (Both are heated, and both have the water coming right up to the top, draining away round the edges, like luxury pools do in the movies.) Seven lakeside cabins offer massages, facials, manicures, aromatherapy, reflexology, waxing ? the lot, with names that range from whimsical to precious. For instance, the quick massage (25 mins, £32) is a 'Speedy Cow'. Reflexology followed by a head massage (1hr 25 mins, £80) is a 'Holy Cow'.

When you finally get round to exploring the main house, you'll find everything you'd expect from a top-price hotel, except the intimidating atmosphere. The Babington House staff seem to have the ability, unlike their counterparts at similarly priced London establishments, to bring you a gin and tonic without looking like they'd rather have you expelled from the premises forthwith. They're friendly, helpful and only there when you want them to be.

Breakfast on the day I left provided a fitting end to the stay. Three of the ducks decided to waddle all the way up from the lake. Reaching the terrace, they came inside for a quick look round. None of the guests impressed them very much, so they headed back out. Probably off to compare notes with the swan.

Babington House
Babington Near Frome
Somerset
BA11 3RW
Tel: 01373 812266
www.babingtonhouse.co.uk
Room rates: £215 - £360 Mon to Thurs, £250 - £395 Fri and Sat. Minimum two-night stay over weekend, three over bank holiday weekends.